I am trying to remodel my house changing all the light switches to the new style ones, some of them are wired and they work perfect and have never had any problem with, but I see that the wires are 12 gauge, and on the switch it says %26quot;only use 14 gauge wires... since 12 gauge is for 20 AMP, and 14 gauge is for 15 AMO, I don%26#039;t think it%26#039;s a deal at all since the house has 20 AMP on most brakers, just want more info... to make sure THANK YOU!!!|||Normally, it is best not to use the slots (%26quot;push-in-terminals%26quot; or %26quot;backstab%26quot; ) on the back of a switch or a receptacle(outlet). It is always best to use the screws on the side of the switch.
Fireman%26#039;s electrical code (NEC) bans using slots in commercial buildings because slots are not good connections. Many cities also ban the use of slots. All connections must use screws to attach wires to outlets or switches.
%26quot;Banning backstabs is decades over due. I say to all those who are partakers in the infuence and direction of electrical safety standards and design in the United States. The allowing of sub-grade materials and design is simply a risk of anothers life. Cheap products are just another contributing factor to the risk of life and contributes to rising insurance rates.%26quot;http://www.mikeholt.com/newslette鈥?br>
%26quot;If the receptacle was damaged due to heat then replace that receptacle. 14 awg wire has a good track record with back stabbing receptacles and are still approved today. However the new receptacles today have a reduced back stab hole diameter to allow only 14 awg and not 12 awg wire in those back stab connections%26quot; http://www.selfhelpandmore.com/homewirin鈥?/a>
UL website:
%26quot;Terminals of the wire-binding screw, setscrew, or screw-actuated back wired clamping types are suitable for use with both solid and stranded building wires.
Screwless terminal connectors of the conductor push-in type (also known as %26quot;push-in-terminals%26quot;) are restricted to 15 A branch circuits and are for connection with 14 AWG solid copper wire only. They are not intended for use with aluminum or copper-clad aluminum wire, 14 AWG stranded copper wire, or 12 AWG solid or stranded copper wire.
Single and duplex receptacles rated 15 and 20 A that are provided with more than one set of terminals for the connection of line and neutral conductors have been investigated to feed branch circuit conductors connected to other outlets on a multi-outlet branch circuit, as follows:
Back wire (screw actuated clamp type) terminations with multiple wire access holes used concurrently to terminate more than one conductor
Side wire (binding screw) terminals used concurrently with their respective push-in (screwless) terminations to terminate more than one conductor
Single and duplex receptacles rated 15 and 20 A that are provided with more than one set of terminals for the connection of line and neutral conductors have not been investigated to feed branch circuit conductors connected to other outlets on a multi-outlet branch circuit, as follows:
Side wire (binding screw) terminal with its associated back wire (screw actuated clamp type) terminal
Multiple conductors under a single binding screw
Multiple conductors in a single back wire hole
Duplex receptacles rated 15 and 20 A that are provided with break off tabs may have those tabs removed so that the two receptacles may be wired in a multi-wire branch circuit.%26quot;%26quot;
http://database.ul.com/cgi-bin/XYV/templ鈥?/a>|||the light swicth is probably only rated for 15 amps thats why it says use 14 gauge only. but if you are only running 1 or 2 lights you shouldn%26#039;t have a prob|||Not a problem. Use the screws insted of the slots. You get a much better connection.|||12 gauge wire is better to use as it has less resistance. I never use 14 gauge.
If you have 20 amp breakers then you should be using nothing smaller than 12 gauge wire on those circuits, in order to avoid fire in your walls.
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