its a double flourescent, one of the bulbs is out. if i turn it off, itll be completely dark, i have no other lights. is it safe to change the bulb with the current running?|||yes it is ok to change the light blub|||I HAVE DONE THIS WITH NO BAD CONSEQUENCES.|||Not a flourescent light. Use a candle.|||You should be fine as long as you only touch the glass part of the bulb while changing it If you touch the ends at the same time you will know it.|||If you already understand that the current is on and that is the only light source the it kindof a given the you are going to be careful and handle the glass part of the flourescent tube not touching the ends ===== be sure the pins seat properly and you may want to have a flashlite in your pocket while on the ladder just to be sure that you have some alternate light ( how about a candle in a safe place == hope these suggestions help you ...|||You could damage your ballasts if you allow your bulb connectors to touch metal while you are replacing them.|||I do it all the time
When working I changes lights and the offices are working so we dont turn them off...nothing to worry about.
It also helps to let you know if you have it correctly in place and it%26#039;s lit.|||if you have two terminals on one end of the lamp in the socket and you touch the other two terminals to the metal frame of the fixture, you will temporarily energize the entire fixture. however, if the ground is continuous this will not cause a problem other than, maybe, a small arc.
Friday, June 3, 2011
How do I wire a bathroom light switch (pull cord)?
I need to change my bathroom light switch from a wall mounted one to a ceiling pull switch type. I have a live, neutral, and earth wire going to the existing switch. The new switch has terminals for %26quot;supply%26quot; and %26quot;load%26quot;, both with live and neutral. What do I do?|||if you have a black,white and copper in the switch then the switch is poweredin the light so you can unhook the wire going to the switch and not use it. it will be dead when you unhook it from where the light is. then hook what wires are left up to the supply terminals and then you can use your pull chain. hope this was helpful|||That may be against code if it%26#039;s reachable from the tub. With a metal chain, I%26#039;d advise against it.
On any switch, it%26#039;s the hot wire that is switched and never the neutral. The reason being is that if the neutral is switched, the light can be off yet a live wire is still there and if you somehow ground yourself while touching a live wire electrocution can result.
On any switch, it%26#039;s the hot wire that is switched and never the neutral. The reason being is that if the neutral is switched, the light can be off yet a live wire is still there and if you somehow ground yourself while touching a live wire electrocution can result.
How do i change the brake light switch on a nissan micra 93?
my brake lights dont work. iv changed fuses, bulbs and bulb holder, brake light switch is my last hope but i have got no idea how to change or where its even situated.. any help please??|||Take it to a mechanic!!!|||top of brake pedal easy to find easy to unscrew
type into search box
how to replace brake light switch
dont really need any tools maybe a pair of pliers|||you dont|||Usually requires some agility, it%26#039;s up at the top of the brake pedal lever. A simple switch, easily unscrewed and replaced. You%26#039;ll need to adjust the replacement by turning it on its thread to get it to work at the right point. Usually a job given to the youngest, smallest and thinnest apprentice at the garage, who can get on his back in the foot well with a torch in his teeth . . .
You may actually find yours is disconnected or needs some adjustment, and that%26#039;s all.|||Take a look at your brake pedal assembly on the floor of your car.
Look at the top of the lever and you should see a switch with a plug connected to it.|||They are usually on the top of the brake pedal.
type into search box
how to replace brake light switch
dont really need any tools maybe a pair of pliers|||you dont|||Usually requires some agility, it%26#039;s up at the top of the brake pedal lever. A simple switch, easily unscrewed and replaced. You%26#039;ll need to adjust the replacement by turning it on its thread to get it to work at the right point. Usually a job given to the youngest, smallest and thinnest apprentice at the garage, who can get on his back in the foot well with a torch in his teeth . . .
You may actually find yours is disconnected or needs some adjustment, and that%26#039;s all.|||Take a look at your brake pedal assembly on the floor of your car.
Look at the top of the lever and you should see a switch with a plug connected to it.|||They are usually on the top of the brake pedal.
How much it would cost to hire electrician come out and change standard light switch to dimmer light switch?
You%26#039;d pay for an hour%26#039;s labor and the dimmer switch. About 100.00 to 120.00|||I suggest finding a reliable handiman. Ask around and I%26#039;m sure you could get some good recommendations. The handimen in my area are in high demand and can do just about everything. The last fellow we hired was only about $15 an hour and he installed an electrical outlet, hooked up our new stove, and cut out the cabinetry to get the darned thing to fit all for $45.
Even at $25 an hour, it is a good deal. You might want to see if there are any other things around the house that need fixing. Installing a dimmer switch isn%26#039;t very difficult for them to do.|||The answer would depend on whether you are member of the British parliament claiming on their expenses or just one of the hard working taxpayers who fund them .
An MP would probably claim 拢18000 whereas a normal working lad would nip down to bq get a dimmer for 拢8.98and fit it himself , after all it is just a replacement switch , a couple of wires and two screws.
If you called out a spark it would only be the call out charge and tops of an hour labour charge max.. If I was to do it I would be embarassed to charge more than 拢30 quid Total including a standard white plastic dimmer switch in the charge.|||It%26#039;s a VERY easy project to do yourself. Plenty of help online, just do a google search. Shut off your breaker for that light (just turn the light on and shut off breakers until the light goes out). Unscrew the cover screws. Unscrew the two screws holding the switch in. Unscrew the screws holding the wires on, noting which wire goes to which colored screw. (probably black to brass, white to silver, green to green, if there is one). Install new dimmer switch that you bought from hardware store. Same but reverse order. Turn breaker on. Enjoy your awesome new mood lighting. Don%26#039;t pay somebody for this 10 minute job. unless you want to pay me.|||Instead of an electrician, use a handyman. You can find one that will work for about $15-20 per hour. I%26#039;ve had one change out door knobs, and add a new transformer over the garage. They have a general working knowledge in most fields and if they don%26#039;t know how to do something, they know the exact person to call and get it done at their going rate. Good luck .|||I Charge 40-50 quid + cost of dimmer.
I also do a safety check of the supply while I%26#039;m there. Did that last year and found the whole installation was unsafe because the incoming supply cable was damaged. A handyman couldn%26#039;t do that...|||Just phone an Electrician in your area for a quote. He%26#039;ll do a quick and SAFE job for you. Getting a Handy Man in to do Electrical work is a good way of saving money for a Funeral. Do you know how easy it is to electrocute someone?|||Changing out switches for dimmers is not a recipe for death. Really??? Any one can do it and it is a great job for a handyman at $20 an hour. Go for it.|||I%26#039;m over 60 years old, and I put my own in. Cost me $12, and took 20 minutes!|||Minimum fee...100|||Too damn much
Even at $25 an hour, it is a good deal. You might want to see if there are any other things around the house that need fixing. Installing a dimmer switch isn%26#039;t very difficult for them to do.|||The answer would depend on whether you are member of the British parliament claiming on their expenses or just one of the hard working taxpayers who fund them .
An MP would probably claim 拢18000 whereas a normal working lad would nip down to bq get a dimmer for 拢8.98and fit it himself , after all it is just a replacement switch , a couple of wires and two screws.
If you called out a spark it would only be the call out charge and tops of an hour labour charge max.. If I was to do it I would be embarassed to charge more than 拢30 quid Total including a standard white plastic dimmer switch in the charge.|||It%26#039;s a VERY easy project to do yourself. Plenty of help online, just do a google search. Shut off your breaker for that light (just turn the light on and shut off breakers until the light goes out). Unscrew the cover screws. Unscrew the two screws holding the switch in. Unscrew the screws holding the wires on, noting which wire goes to which colored screw. (probably black to brass, white to silver, green to green, if there is one). Install new dimmer switch that you bought from hardware store. Same but reverse order. Turn breaker on. Enjoy your awesome new mood lighting. Don%26#039;t pay somebody for this 10 minute job. unless you want to pay me.|||Instead of an electrician, use a handyman. You can find one that will work for about $15-20 per hour. I%26#039;ve had one change out door knobs, and add a new transformer over the garage. They have a general working knowledge in most fields and if they don%26#039;t know how to do something, they know the exact person to call and get it done at their going rate. Good luck .|||I Charge 40-50 quid + cost of dimmer.
I also do a safety check of the supply while I%26#039;m there. Did that last year and found the whole installation was unsafe because the incoming supply cable was damaged. A handyman couldn%26#039;t do that...|||Just phone an Electrician in your area for a quote. He%26#039;ll do a quick and SAFE job for you. Getting a Handy Man in to do Electrical work is a good way of saving money for a Funeral. Do you know how easy it is to electrocute someone?|||Changing out switches for dimmers is not a recipe for death. Really??? Any one can do it and it is a great job for a handyman at $20 an hour. Go for it.|||I%26#039;m over 60 years old, and I put my own in. Cost me $12, and took 20 minutes!|||Minimum fee...100|||Too damn much
If I changed a light switch for one room and it works fine, does it mean I wired the wires correctly?
Some electricians out there, I need your help! I replaced a light switch and it seems to work fine, just wanted to know what happens if I wired it wrong, or made some mistake... It would just not turn on, or it might turn on even though the wiring is bad....|||Unless it%26#039;s a three way switch, (it would have 3 wires going to each of three screws), it%26#039;s pretty impossible to wire it wrong. A simple on/off switch does nothing more than providing a means of touching two hot wire ends together or moving them apart. Makes no real difference which post, or screw, you put which wire on, it should work just fine.|||corky is right, as long as you have it grounded, the wires are reversible on the switch. good luck.
How do i change my brake light switch?
i have a K reg astra estate but cant quite get to the brake light switch.is there an easier way to fit it?|||the switch will be on the Master cylinder if that is truly your problem you just have to locate it and remove anything that%26#039;s in your way and replace it|||Are you 100% sure thats the problem? Thay usually dont fail. If it is the problem then you have to change it. I assume its behind the brake pedal.
Changing a light bulb?
Why do you have to switch the light off before changing the bulb?
I know youre meant to, but basically in our house theres 2 downstairs hall lights and 2 upstairs and lots of light switches, i cant figure out which is for which one as several of the lights arent working and some of the downstairs switches operate the upstairs lights!! If i just switch them all so theyre in an off position will i be ok? I feel so stupid asking this..|||Dont worry about it just change them..You wont get shocked less you put your fingers in the socket.Ya dont need to turn the power off.|||Turn the main switch off, then you%26#039;re bound to get the right one.|||Because when you put the bulb back in and the switch is on, it could blow the bulb and you%26#039;d be back to square one again|||As long as you don%26#039;t put your fingers in the socket, you should be safe. With two way switches it%26#039;s really hard to know for sure if it%26#039;s off. Just be careful when you%26#039;re replacing the bulb and you should be fine.|||There is a slight chance that u could have a electric shock or electrocuted if you don%26#039;t turn of the switch 1st.But that is only if you have dodgy wiring throughout your house|||that should be fine.
as long as you%26#039;re just changing the bulb and not the whole fixture, even if the switch were in the on position all that would happen is that the light might come on as you%26#039;re screwing it in.|||yes.and i dont always turn the light switch off before changing my lightbulbs when i put the bulb in the light just goes on.|||its in case you are stupid enough to put either your finger or some other object in the hole!
you can quite easily change the bulb with the power on i do it all the time
one thing to take care of is the heat
a 100 watt bulb will be too hot to hold in about 2 seconds so if its not locked in home correctly you will either burn yourself or drop the bulb!|||The problem with shutting them in the off position is it sounds like you have 2 way light switches so the off position might be the on posistion for that switch. As long as you do not put yoru fingure or anything else in the light socket then you are alright putting a bulb in a hot circuite just do not jump or flinch and use a rage or something to hole the light bulb.|||Wear rubber soled shoes/slippers and hold a broom whilst putting in the new lightbulb. That is what I would do anyway to conduct the electricity away from me.
I have put a light bulb in with switch on before without holding the broom, think I was wearing slippers though and I survived, as soon as element touches you will know it is on with little spark of light, just turn light off before you screw it in fully.
If it was a real danger, there would be a big warning on outside of the box, as where theres a blame there is a claim !|||Switching the light off at the light switch before changing the light bulb is for personal safety. Failure to switch off the power supply to the light bulb socket, could lead to electric shock. While this may not cause death, it might lead to injury, especially if a person changing the bulb was using a pair of steps or standing on a chair. An electric shock could cause them to fall.
YouTube - Tazer - cops use tazer to shock suspect to the ground
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qmoz3zF4T鈥?/a>
Of course you are unlikely to have the above happen changing a light bulb, but you just can%26#039;t be too careful.
Stay tooned.|||Check the right bulbs that need replacement by switching all . Then go to the mains and switch it off.
Now change the bulbs, and swtch on the mains.|||Suggest you use some protection in case the bulb %26#039;explodes%26#039; i.e. gloves and eye protection|||its to avoid any nasty accident|||It sounds like you have some three way switches which are typically used on stairways so the lights can be turned on from either end of the stairs. I am assuming these lights all have standard medium screw A-lamps in which case there is no reason to turn the power off to the circuit - just unscrew the light bulb and replace it without sticking your fingers in the lamp socket.
When they all work, take a few minutes to figure out which lights are controlled by which switches and which circuit on your breaker panel so that if one gets broken, you can be sure that the power is off before you extract what%26#039;s left of the light bulb.
Good luck!|||I know what you%26#039;re saying about %26quot;supposed to%26quot; turn the switch off first, and I assume that this is a safety measure, but I have changed bulbs before without doing so-being very careful not to touch anything other that the bulb and I%26#039;m still here, never having been shocked! I am a housewife, not an electrician, and am only speaking from expeience, not electrical knowledge. Good luck!|||No problem, just change the bulb %26amp; keep your digits out of the socket. A cloth around the new bulb will protect your fingers. Once in a looooong while a defective bulb will break when first lit.|||I understand your probelm perfectly well as I have the same problem. When you push the new bulb up to the light fitting if the light is switched on the bulb will light up even though you have not yet fitted the bulb properly. Just pull the bulb away and turn the switch off and then continue. I%26#039;m not an electrician but the only problem that I have had if I have tried to fit a light bulb when the switch is on is that the bulb gets hot if it takes a while for you to fit the bulb.
Other than this you can turn your electric off at the mains and fit the bulb during day light hours or if it is in an awkward place away from natural light you could use a torch to help you.|||being an electrician i would highly recommend turning the light circuit off at the fuse board. the reason for this is if you are on the ladder and you touch the positive terminal of the light fitting and get a shock you could fall off the ladder and kill yourself
I know youre meant to, but basically in our house theres 2 downstairs hall lights and 2 upstairs and lots of light switches, i cant figure out which is for which one as several of the lights arent working and some of the downstairs switches operate the upstairs lights!! If i just switch them all so theyre in an off position will i be ok? I feel so stupid asking this..|||Dont worry about it just change them..You wont get shocked less you put your fingers in the socket.Ya dont need to turn the power off.|||Turn the main switch off, then you%26#039;re bound to get the right one.|||Because when you put the bulb back in and the switch is on, it could blow the bulb and you%26#039;d be back to square one again|||As long as you don%26#039;t put your fingers in the socket, you should be safe. With two way switches it%26#039;s really hard to know for sure if it%26#039;s off. Just be careful when you%26#039;re replacing the bulb and you should be fine.|||There is a slight chance that u could have a electric shock or electrocuted if you don%26#039;t turn of the switch 1st.But that is only if you have dodgy wiring throughout your house|||that should be fine.
as long as you%26#039;re just changing the bulb and not the whole fixture, even if the switch were in the on position all that would happen is that the light might come on as you%26#039;re screwing it in.|||yes.and i dont always turn the light switch off before changing my lightbulbs when i put the bulb in the light just goes on.|||its in case you are stupid enough to put either your finger or some other object in the hole!
you can quite easily change the bulb with the power on i do it all the time
one thing to take care of is the heat
a 100 watt bulb will be too hot to hold in about 2 seconds so if its not locked in home correctly you will either burn yourself or drop the bulb!|||The problem with shutting them in the off position is it sounds like you have 2 way light switches so the off position might be the on posistion for that switch. As long as you do not put yoru fingure or anything else in the light socket then you are alright putting a bulb in a hot circuite just do not jump or flinch and use a rage or something to hole the light bulb.|||Wear rubber soled shoes/slippers and hold a broom whilst putting in the new lightbulb. That is what I would do anyway to conduct the electricity away from me.
I have put a light bulb in with switch on before without holding the broom, think I was wearing slippers though and I survived, as soon as element touches you will know it is on with little spark of light, just turn light off before you screw it in fully.
If it was a real danger, there would be a big warning on outside of the box, as where theres a blame there is a claim !|||Switching the light off at the light switch before changing the light bulb is for personal safety. Failure to switch off the power supply to the light bulb socket, could lead to electric shock. While this may not cause death, it might lead to injury, especially if a person changing the bulb was using a pair of steps or standing on a chair. An electric shock could cause them to fall.
YouTube - Tazer - cops use tazer to shock suspect to the ground
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qmoz3zF4T鈥?/a>
Of course you are unlikely to have the above happen changing a light bulb, but you just can%26#039;t be too careful.
Stay tooned.|||Check the right bulbs that need replacement by switching all . Then go to the mains and switch it off.
Now change the bulbs, and swtch on the mains.|||Suggest you use some protection in case the bulb %26#039;explodes%26#039; i.e. gloves and eye protection|||its to avoid any nasty accident|||It sounds like you have some three way switches which are typically used on stairways so the lights can be turned on from either end of the stairs. I am assuming these lights all have standard medium screw A-lamps in which case there is no reason to turn the power off to the circuit - just unscrew the light bulb and replace it without sticking your fingers in the lamp socket.
When they all work, take a few minutes to figure out which lights are controlled by which switches and which circuit on your breaker panel so that if one gets broken, you can be sure that the power is off before you extract what%26#039;s left of the light bulb.
Good luck!|||I know what you%26#039;re saying about %26quot;supposed to%26quot; turn the switch off first, and I assume that this is a safety measure, but I have changed bulbs before without doing so-being very careful not to touch anything other that the bulb and I%26#039;m still here, never having been shocked! I am a housewife, not an electrician, and am only speaking from expeience, not electrical knowledge. Good luck!|||No problem, just change the bulb %26amp; keep your digits out of the socket. A cloth around the new bulb will protect your fingers. Once in a looooong while a defective bulb will break when first lit.|||I understand your probelm perfectly well as I have the same problem. When you push the new bulb up to the light fitting if the light is switched on the bulb will light up even though you have not yet fitted the bulb properly. Just pull the bulb away and turn the switch off and then continue. I%26#039;m not an electrician but the only problem that I have had if I have tried to fit a light bulb when the switch is on is that the bulb gets hot if it takes a while for you to fit the bulb.
Other than this you can turn your electric off at the mains and fit the bulb during day light hours or if it is in an awkward place away from natural light you could use a torch to help you.|||being an electrician i would highly recommend turning the light circuit off at the fuse board. the reason for this is if you are on the ladder and you touch the positive terminal of the light fitting and get a shock you could fall off the ladder and kill yourself
Question about electrical light switch installation?
I have a bathroom between two rooms with a light switch outside each door.I changed the light switch on either side.Before I changed them,you could switch on the light from both rooms.Now you cannot.One has to be turned off to turn on from the other room.Did I put the wires in the wrong screws or do I need another type of switch? I hope I have not confused you.|||You have miss wired your 3 way switches.At one end or the other you have a traveler leg on the common screw and power coming into or going out of the circuit is on one of the traveler screws.A simple mistake I%26#039;ve done it myself.|||Sounds like you replaced 3 way switches with 2 way switches. Yes you will have to replace them with the right ones. If you did use 3 way switches then you have miswired them.
How do I change the brake light switch in my 2003 Ford Explorer?
When I start the car, and tap my brakes, I can%26#039;t shift out of park. I%26#039;m assuming that means the brake light switch is out. I have the new part, I just don%26#039;t know how to install it.|||I dont think thats your problem, that part only activates the brake lights when u hit the pedal.|||take the clip off of the brake senser on the back of the brake pedal and take off wire conneter and install new one put clip on put wire back on and check but it also could be a shift inner lock bad|||that could be the problem ,but to change that ,you need to remove the lower panel and lay down in the floor board,then you,ll see it,remove it from the holder and install the new one,it too has to be adjusted to be right,you need to set it at a point to where when you just touch the brake pedal it comes on,this might help you with the shift problem also,good luck with it.
What happens if installing a light switch I put a 12 gauge wire on a 14 gauge slot?
I am trying to remodel my house changing all the light switches to the new style ones, some of them are wired and they work perfect and have never had any problem with, but I see that the wires are 12 gauge, and on the switch it says %26quot;only use 14 gauge wires... since 12 gauge is for 20 AMP, and 14 gauge is for 15 AMO, I don%26#039;t think it%26#039;s a deal at all since the house has 20 AMP on most brakers, just want more info... to make sure THANK YOU!!!|||Normally, it is best not to use the slots (%26quot;push-in-terminals%26quot; or %26quot;backstab%26quot; ) on the back of a switch or a receptacle(outlet). It is always best to use the screws on the side of the switch.
Fireman%26#039;s electrical code (NEC) bans using slots in commercial buildings because slots are not good connections. Many cities also ban the use of slots. All connections must use screws to attach wires to outlets or switches.
%26quot;Banning backstabs is decades over due. I say to all those who are partakers in the infuence and direction of electrical safety standards and design in the United States. The allowing of sub-grade materials and design is simply a risk of anothers life. Cheap products are just another contributing factor to the risk of life and contributes to rising insurance rates.%26quot;http://www.mikeholt.com/newslette鈥?br>
%26quot;If the receptacle was damaged due to heat then replace that receptacle. 14 awg wire has a good track record with back stabbing receptacles and are still approved today. However the new receptacles today have a reduced back stab hole diameter to allow only 14 awg and not 12 awg wire in those back stab connections%26quot; http://www.selfhelpandmore.com/homewirin鈥?/a>
UL website:
%26quot;Terminals of the wire-binding screw, setscrew, or screw-actuated back wired clamping types are suitable for use with both solid and stranded building wires.
Screwless terminal connectors of the conductor push-in type (also known as %26quot;push-in-terminals%26quot;) are restricted to 15 A branch circuits and are for connection with 14 AWG solid copper wire only. They are not intended for use with aluminum or copper-clad aluminum wire, 14 AWG stranded copper wire, or 12 AWG solid or stranded copper wire.
Single and duplex receptacles rated 15 and 20 A that are provided with more than one set of terminals for the connection of line and neutral conductors have been investigated to feed branch circuit conductors connected to other outlets on a multi-outlet branch circuit, as follows:
Back wire (screw actuated clamp type) terminations with multiple wire access holes used concurrently to terminate more than one conductor
Side wire (binding screw) terminals used concurrently with their respective push-in (screwless) terminations to terminate more than one conductor
Single and duplex receptacles rated 15 and 20 A that are provided with more than one set of terminals for the connection of line and neutral conductors have not been investigated to feed branch circuit conductors connected to other outlets on a multi-outlet branch circuit, as follows:
Side wire (binding screw) terminal with its associated back wire (screw actuated clamp type) terminal
Multiple conductors under a single binding screw
Multiple conductors in a single back wire hole
Duplex receptacles rated 15 and 20 A that are provided with break off tabs may have those tabs removed so that the two receptacles may be wired in a multi-wire branch circuit.%26quot;%26quot;
http://database.ul.com/cgi-bin/XYV/templ鈥?/a>|||the light swicth is probably only rated for 15 amps thats why it says use 14 gauge only. but if you are only running 1 or 2 lights you shouldn%26#039;t have a prob|||Not a problem. Use the screws insted of the slots. You get a much better connection.|||12 gauge wire is better to use as it has less resistance. I never use 14 gauge.
If you have 20 amp breakers then you should be using nothing smaller than 12 gauge wire on those circuits, in order to avoid fire in your walls.
Fireman%26#039;s electrical code (NEC) bans using slots in commercial buildings because slots are not good connections. Many cities also ban the use of slots. All connections must use screws to attach wires to outlets or switches.
%26quot;Banning backstabs is decades over due. I say to all those who are partakers in the infuence and direction of electrical safety standards and design in the United States. The allowing of sub-grade materials and design is simply a risk of anothers life. Cheap products are just another contributing factor to the risk of life and contributes to rising insurance rates.%26quot;http://www.mikeholt.com/newslette鈥?br>
%26quot;If the receptacle was damaged due to heat then replace that receptacle. 14 awg wire has a good track record with back stabbing receptacles and are still approved today. However the new receptacles today have a reduced back stab hole diameter to allow only 14 awg and not 12 awg wire in those back stab connections%26quot; http://www.selfhelpandmore.com/homewirin鈥?/a>
UL website:
%26quot;Terminals of the wire-binding screw, setscrew, or screw-actuated back wired clamping types are suitable for use with both solid and stranded building wires.
Screwless terminal connectors of the conductor push-in type (also known as %26quot;push-in-terminals%26quot;) are restricted to 15 A branch circuits and are for connection with 14 AWG solid copper wire only. They are not intended for use with aluminum or copper-clad aluminum wire, 14 AWG stranded copper wire, or 12 AWG solid or stranded copper wire.
Single and duplex receptacles rated 15 and 20 A that are provided with more than one set of terminals for the connection of line and neutral conductors have been investigated to feed branch circuit conductors connected to other outlets on a multi-outlet branch circuit, as follows:
Back wire (screw actuated clamp type) terminations with multiple wire access holes used concurrently to terminate more than one conductor
Side wire (binding screw) terminals used concurrently with their respective push-in (screwless) terminations to terminate more than one conductor
Single and duplex receptacles rated 15 and 20 A that are provided with more than one set of terminals for the connection of line and neutral conductors have not been investigated to feed branch circuit conductors connected to other outlets on a multi-outlet branch circuit, as follows:
Side wire (binding screw) terminal with its associated back wire (screw actuated clamp type) terminal
Multiple conductors under a single binding screw
Multiple conductors in a single back wire hole
Duplex receptacles rated 15 and 20 A that are provided with break off tabs may have those tabs removed so that the two receptacles may be wired in a multi-wire branch circuit.%26quot;%26quot;
http://database.ul.com/cgi-bin/XYV/templ鈥?/a>|||the light swicth is probably only rated for 15 amps thats why it says use 14 gauge only. but if you are only running 1 or 2 lights you shouldn%26#039;t have a prob|||Not a problem. Use the screws insted of the slots. You get a much better connection.|||12 gauge wire is better to use as it has less resistance. I never use 14 gauge.
If you have 20 amp breakers then you should be using nothing smaller than 12 gauge wire on those circuits, in order to avoid fire in your walls.
How do you change a brake light switch?
I think i need a brake light switch. my signals dont work neither though. i have a 1988 chevy corsica. when i press my signal towards the steering wheel my left signal works but my right one doesnt work period. neither does my brake lights. when i hit the brakes they dont turn red. what could that mean?|||your turn signals and brake lights both got thru the turnsignal switch. %26quot;when i press my signal towards the steering wheel my left signal works but my right one doesnt work period%26quot; indicates a problem with the turn signal switch. most likely needs replace. but also the car should have a center brake light does it work? it does not go thru the turn signal switch only thru the brake light switch. recheck the bulb on the center light if its good check the brake light switch also. to check the switch get a test light and check both connections to the switch. with brake pedal up the light should light on 1 side but not the other. with brake pedal down light should light on both sides. if it does not light on either side check the fuse / wiring between fuse and switch. if it lights on 1 side but not the other with pedal down replace brake light switch.|||I would check the lamps first - they are probably burnt out.|||check all your bulbs first|||Sounds more like a malfunctioning turn signal switch. If your car has the setup where the brake and turn use the same bulb then the signal goes first to the turn signal switch and then to the brake light switch. Since you have a problem with both it%26#039;s just about certain it%26#039;s in the turn signal switch. For changeing either switch it depends on what make, model and year of car you have. Almost all of them are different. Brake light switches are relatively simple to replace. The turn signal switch usually requires removal of the steering wheel and a special tool to remove the plug from the wiring harness. Either buy a repair manual for your car (about $20 at the auto parts store) or check with a local repair facility to see what they%26#039;ll charge to fix it . If it%26#039;s a newer car, with an airbag, I wouldn%26#039;t recommend DIY removal of the steering wheel. Good luck.
How do I change a brake light switch on a 2003 Dodge Neon SXT?
I an getting a check engine light, took the car to Auto zone and they used a code reader which said that there was a problem with the brake light switch sensor, so I bought one there (only $15). Now I am wondering if it%26#039;s just something I can literally pull out the old one and place the new one in. It looks like a plug. Any help?|||it mounts down by the brake pedal arm and if you,ll carefully watch how the old one comes off you can install the new one your self,but it may have to be adjusted once its on,so watch carefully how you remove the old one,and go from there with it,good luck.|||your welcome and i wish you the best of luck on it,you can do this one,and save a repair bill on it,have a good holiday season.
|||Yes, it%26#039;s on the brake pedal arm mount. If you look under the dash, you can see it, there are two wires going to it.
When I do work like this, I take the front seat out so I can lay down to do any work under there because I%26#039;m a tall guy and not as flexible as I used to be.
If you are not mechanically inclined, have a friend do it for you.
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|||Yes, it%26#039;s on the brake pedal arm mount. If you look under the dash, you can see it, there are two wires going to it.
When I do work like this, I take the front seat out so I can lay down to do any work under there because I%26#039;m a tall guy and not as flexible as I used to be.
If you are not mechanically inclined, have a friend do it for you.
How do I successfully change out a light switch?
My light switch started to smoke. I bought a new switch and replaced the wires just as they were on the previous switch, but no light! How do I know which wires to hook up where?|||If light was on when the switch starting smoking, then the problem could be in the light or in the wiring. You should get a volt meter and measure across the switch and see if you have power. If uncertain about what to do, call a electrician or knowledgeable friend, you could burn down the house.|||Check the fuse or circuit breaker first to see if the circuit is complete.
If still no go, read up on polarity, which might have been the original problem.|||was it the switch itself that smoked or did the smoke come out from inside of the switch box... may just be a lose connection in the box... a single pole light switch (meaning only 2 wires connect to the switch) can be connected to either terminal of the switch itself...|||there should be 2 black wires going to the switch unless it%26#039;s a 3 way . look in the gang box and try to see which set of wires look like they are going to the light that black one should go to the top of the switch and the other to the bottom. if you have no light grt a working bulb put in the light try it again . if still no light check your white wires that they are tightly secured to each other.
If still no go, read up on polarity, which might have been the original problem.|||was it the switch itself that smoked or did the smoke come out from inside of the switch box... may just be a lose connection in the box... a single pole light switch (meaning only 2 wires connect to the switch) can be connected to either terminal of the switch itself...|||there should be 2 black wires going to the switch unless it%26#039;s a 3 way . look in the gang box and try to see which set of wires look like they are going to the light that black one should go to the top of the switch and the other to the bottom. if you have no light grt a working bulb put in the light try it again . if still no light check your white wires that they are tightly secured to each other.
How to change a plastic light switch to metal light switch?
In my hall i have a single bathroom switch, a twin outside and hall switch, a kitchen single switch, a single hall light. The bathroom works as does the outside one but the rest dont. The house is very old? is it possible that if one is wired wrong the rest will be affected? please help.|||It could be any number of things and it is hard to guess what might be the problem. The bottom line is if you have to ask, then it is better to just call and electrician. They will probably be able to fix it for the price of a service call. Between 50 and 100 bucks.|||Have an electrician replace old switches,he can check the wiring aswell.|||Yes, very possible. If the original switches have been replaced, that is likely the case, as I%26#039;m sure they once worked.
I%26#039;m sure you checked the light bulbs first, right? :)|||Since the house is quite old, the switchplates that aren%26#039;t working are probably due to defective wiring on those only. It could have just disintegrated over the years. An electrician would be able to re-do those but I would have all checked to make sure they aren%26#039;t about to go as well.|||the policy is these days not to use metal switches anyway, you are more likly to have problem because it%26#039;s metal and conducts electricity, stick to plastic one they are much safer. as for your problem you have two ring mains the top and bottom and they are all connected i suggest you get a proper electricain to help you|||Old houses with old wiring are a job for a pro. Call an electrician.
I%26#039;m sure you checked the light bulbs first, right? :)|||Since the house is quite old, the switchplates that aren%26#039;t working are probably due to defective wiring on those only. It could have just disintegrated over the years. An electrician would be able to re-do those but I would have all checked to make sure they aren%26#039;t about to go as well.|||the policy is these days not to use metal switches anyway, you are more likly to have problem because it%26#039;s metal and conducts electricity, stick to plastic one they are much safer. as for your problem you have two ring mains the top and bottom and they are all connected i suggest you get a proper electricain to help you|||Old houses with old wiring are a job for a pro. Call an electrician.
I had my brake light switch changed and from it car seems to be losing acceleration help?
this only happens after about 10miles and her brake seems to be stiff one minute loose the next do you think it has something to do with brake light switch or something more serious|||something else thats like saying you replace a light bulb in bed room but has no hot water|||The brake light switch should not affect the operation of your brakes.
However, check to make sure there are no wires hanging down and interfering with your brake pedal. There could be more resistance on the brake pedal if something gets wedged.
Otherwise, start going over your brake system.|||the brake light switch would have nothing to do with the problem your having, you have some other problem.|||It can happen. Some cars automatically turn off overdrive when you hit the brakes so the engine will help slow the car. If the old switch was on all the time, overdrive would never engage and you%26#039;d have better acceleration because you%26#039;d always be in third gear. Fix the switch and overdrive works again, reducing response quite a bit on the highway.
However, check to make sure there are no wires hanging down and interfering with your brake pedal. There could be more resistance on the brake pedal if something gets wedged.
Otherwise, start going over your brake system.|||the brake light switch would have nothing to do with the problem your having, you have some other problem.|||It can happen. Some cars automatically turn off overdrive when you hit the brakes so the engine will help slow the car. If the old switch was on all the time, overdrive would never engage and you%26#039;d have better acceleration because you%26#039;d always be in third gear. Fix the switch and overdrive works again, reducing response quite a bit on the highway.
How do I change fan switch for a/c and the light bulbs in radio buttons? ?
I have an %26#039;05 Chevy Silverado 2500 HD. The fan switch only works on the 3 %26amp; 4 speed. I assume the switch is bad. Also the lights on the radio display buttons are out, is there a way to change light bulbs in the display. The sliding temp. controls lights for climate control are also out can they be changed and how? |||The fan speed issue is a bad fan resistor module located somewhere under the glovebox attached to the a/c box.
Radio back lights are not serviceable. Slider light %26quot;might%26quot; be. You would have to pull the panel to see if it has socketed bulbs.
Radio back lights are not serviceable. Slider light %26quot;might%26quot; be. You would have to pull the panel to see if it has socketed bulbs.
Can I safely change a light switch without disconnecting power to it?
Yes, I know this may sound like a stupid question but I am in an apartment and don%26#039;t have access to the circuit breaker.
I don%26#039;t need anyone suggestion %26quot;blah blah speak to your landlord.%26quot; I%26#039;d just like to know if there is a safe way to do this. Thanks.|||Well, not a 100% chance of electrocution, but a high chance. I would recommend having the apt. maintenance person take care of it, they will have access to the breaker. But if you cannot wait....
The key is that you do not make contact with the charged metal parts of either the switch or the wire, and not make contact with any grounded metal with any other parts of your body, just in case. One wire attached to the switch is %26#039;live%26#039; and the other is the %26#039;load%26#039; wire that brings the power to the light. If the switch is on and the wires are connected, they are both live.
First, take the light bulb out of the light, or unplug anything from a switched outlet. Next, wear a pair of leather or rubber coated gloves if you have them. Then, using an insulated handle screw driver (after the side of the switch is accessible) loosen the screws, to remove the wires. Remove the wires by holding only the insulation, don%26#039;t touch the exposed metal ends, and try not to deform the loops much. Put them onto the new switch%26#039;s corresponding screws, loops going clockwise, and make sure they are still curved around the screw as much as they were previously. Tighten the screws well, and make sure the wires are still securely under the screws before shoving everything back in the box.
If they are %26#039;stab-in%26#039; type switches, you won%26#039;t be unscrewing any screws on the side of the switch, but instead, will worry the wires out from the holes, and stab them into the like holes on the new switch. I have done this live, and I have shocked myself, so death is not imminent, but honestly, it%26#039;s not smart. Just a few milli-amps across the heart and you%26#039;re toast.|||you know some cmmon sense here would help you alot!!
if you dont want to ask the landlord so you can get to the power then dont take a chace on getting electrocuted. im sure your old enough to know this. or are you??
geesh...and you may not want to hear this but.. you did anyway.. its fact and we want ya to stay alive!!|||Yes you can but you have to be careful not to touch the live wire with your bare hands and to use well insulated tools. Identify the live wire and be sure to tape up the exposed wire with insulation tape and only remove it when connecting it to the new switch.|||There really is no safe way to do it. You are dealing with 110 volts here, and unless you disconnect the power, you stand a nearly 100 percent chance of electrocuting yourself.|||Remember it%26#039;s not the volts, but the amps that kill you.
I don%26#039;t need anyone suggestion %26quot;blah blah speak to your landlord.%26quot; I%26#039;d just like to know if there is a safe way to do this. Thanks.|||Well, not a 100% chance of electrocution, but a high chance. I would recommend having the apt. maintenance person take care of it, they will have access to the breaker. But if you cannot wait....
The key is that you do not make contact with the charged metal parts of either the switch or the wire, and not make contact with any grounded metal with any other parts of your body, just in case. One wire attached to the switch is %26#039;live%26#039; and the other is the %26#039;load%26#039; wire that brings the power to the light. If the switch is on and the wires are connected, they are both live.
First, take the light bulb out of the light, or unplug anything from a switched outlet. Next, wear a pair of leather or rubber coated gloves if you have them. Then, using an insulated handle screw driver (after the side of the switch is accessible) loosen the screws, to remove the wires. Remove the wires by holding only the insulation, don%26#039;t touch the exposed metal ends, and try not to deform the loops much. Put them onto the new switch%26#039;s corresponding screws, loops going clockwise, and make sure they are still curved around the screw as much as they were previously. Tighten the screws well, and make sure the wires are still securely under the screws before shoving everything back in the box.
If they are %26#039;stab-in%26#039; type switches, you won%26#039;t be unscrewing any screws on the side of the switch, but instead, will worry the wires out from the holes, and stab them into the like holes on the new switch. I have done this live, and I have shocked myself, so death is not imminent, but honestly, it%26#039;s not smart. Just a few milli-amps across the heart and you%26#039;re toast.|||you know some cmmon sense here would help you alot!!
if you dont want to ask the landlord so you can get to the power then dont take a chace on getting electrocuted. im sure your old enough to know this. or are you??
geesh...and you may not want to hear this but.. you did anyway.. its fact and we want ya to stay alive!!|||Yes you can but you have to be careful not to touch the live wire with your bare hands and to use well insulated tools. Identify the live wire and be sure to tape up the exposed wire with insulation tape and only remove it when connecting it to the new switch.|||There really is no safe way to do it. You are dealing with 110 volts here, and unless you disconnect the power, you stand a nearly 100 percent chance of electrocuting yourself.|||Remember it%26#039;s not the volts, but the amps that kill you.
When changing a light or ceiling fan, can I just turn the switch off, or do I need to turn the breaker off?
I know the safest answer is to turn the breaker off, but if you are an electrician and know what you are doing, is it possible (and safe) to do these things with just the switch off?|||Actually, some of the %26quot;old school%26quot; electricians switch the neutral instead of the hot. So if your light is wired this way and you only turn off the switch, you will get lit up if you touch the hot and ground together!! Best to turn off the breaker.|||Just the switch|||a lightbulb is fine idk about a ceiling fan though|||If your just changing the light bulb then the switch is fine, but if your replacing the light or ceiling fan then you need to turn the breaker off, or you will end up shocking yourself or worse.|||If you really are an electrician then you know that turning the breaker off is the safest way, but you also know or should know what you are doing so not to get shocked and knocked off the chair or ladder.|||Thhe safest answer is to turn the breaker off.
But, %26quot;unless%26quot; you are an a licensed electrician. Call for one.|||if you were an electrician, you would already know the answer, therefore turn breaker off|||if you turn the breaker off theres a more likely chance of not gettin electracuted!!!! its not safe at all to just turn the switch off cuz theres a way more likely chance to get killed!!! my dad does tht all the time with the breaker off so he wont get eletracuted and im glad of tht so he dont get killed!!! my dad says to never just turn the switch off cuz its to dangerous and to risky to lose your life from a ceiling fan or light bulb!!!!|||Not all power sources run directly to the switch. Some electricians wire the hot feed to the box %26amp; run a leg to the switch. If you are asking these questions, you are not an electrician and should turn off the breaker, or take the chance of getting shocked. Some electricians that I know always work with %26quot;hot%26quot; wires, some play it safe %26amp; kill the power. Getting shocked sucks, turn it off.|||yes you can but you run the risk of someone else turning the switch on you|||the old saying goes...there are old electricians and bold electricians but there are no old,bold electricians...
But, %26quot;unless%26quot; you are an a licensed electrician. Call for one.|||if you were an electrician, you would already know the answer, therefore turn breaker off|||if you turn the breaker off theres a more likely chance of not gettin electracuted!!!! its not safe at all to just turn the switch off cuz theres a way more likely chance to get killed!!! my dad does tht all the time with the breaker off so he wont get eletracuted and im glad of tht so he dont get killed!!! my dad says to never just turn the switch off cuz its to dangerous and to risky to lose your life from a ceiling fan or light bulb!!!!|||Not all power sources run directly to the switch. Some electricians wire the hot feed to the box %26amp; run a leg to the switch. If you are asking these questions, you are not an electrician and should turn off the breaker, or take the chance of getting shocked. Some electricians that I know always work with %26quot;hot%26quot; wires, some play it safe %26amp; kill the power. Getting shocked sucks, turn it off.|||yes you can but you run the risk of someone else turning the switch on you|||the old saying goes...there are old electricians and bold electricians but there are no old,bold electricians...
How do you get the cover off the switch for the light in a GE refrigerator?
The light will not work in our GE refrig. We got a new bulb but it still doesn%26#039;t work. How do you get the cover off of the light switch to change the switch?|||first i would unplug the frig and check the socket, it might have corrison from moisture in it not allowing the bulb to make contact to light up.....otherwise the switches 99% of the time snap into place you just need to pry it out.....but if you don%26#039;t know how to do that i would call a repairman
Why is my compact fluorescent light keeps on flickering even the switch is OFF?
I used a %26quot;lighted switch%26quot; when the power is OFF so I can locate the switch when it is OFF. But the CFL(compact fluorescent light) in that circuit flickers continuously. When I changed the lighted switch to a regular switch the flickering stop.Is there something wrong with the switch? I have a 220V|||When the switch is off, a small current passes through the small bulb in the switch to light it.
When the switch is on, all the current is delivered to the light bulb, and there is none passing through the small bulb in the switch.
This works fine with normal bulbs, but the small trickle of power can cause CFLs to flicker and may produce large amounts of radio interference.
So the switch is probably fine, but it won%26#039;t work with CFLs. Depending on where the light is you may be fine with a normal bulb. CFLs work best where they are on for extended periods of time, and poorly where they are turned off and on repeatedly for brief periods.
There may be newer lighted switches that overcome this problem, but they%26#039;ll probably cost more.|||clearly your switch was malfunctioning and letting some power through in the %26quot;off%26quot; position. An incandescent bulb would have simply bin very dim, probably not even noticeable. However, due to the design of a CFL, it would not be able to constantly maintain light without enough power so it would just flicker.
Either keep the non lighted switch or switch to a different lighted one, preferably one of a different design or from a different company.
When the switch is on, all the current is delivered to the light bulb, and there is none passing through the small bulb in the switch.
This works fine with normal bulbs, but the small trickle of power can cause CFLs to flicker and may produce large amounts of radio interference.
So the switch is probably fine, but it won%26#039;t work with CFLs. Depending on where the light is you may be fine with a normal bulb. CFLs work best where they are on for extended periods of time, and poorly where they are turned off and on repeatedly for brief periods.
There may be newer lighted switches that overcome this problem, but they%26#039;ll probably cost more.|||clearly your switch was malfunctioning and letting some power through in the %26quot;off%26quot; position. An incandescent bulb would have simply bin very dim, probably not even noticeable. However, due to the design of a CFL, it would not be able to constantly maintain light without enough power so it would just flicker.
Either keep the non lighted switch or switch to a different lighted one, preferably one of a different design or from a different company.
I just changed a light switch cover and now on is off and off is on?
No it is not upside down, it is a switch for 4 lights (just to make it fun), all lights and switches are working just the wrong way round. Think I have just got one wire incorrect but unsure which...can you please help?|||So when you close the switch (turn it on), the lights go out!?? I%26#039;ve been a licensed electrician for 26 years and this is a good one. They%26#039;ve got to be 3-ways switches, ?? Call a local electrician to come take a look at it.|||Lights in series are not fun, you will need a voltmeter or keep changing wires around AND BE CAREFUL.|||Personally I think you are foolish to play around with electricity if you are not an electrcian. Apart from the risk of injuring or killing yourself or someone else, there is also the risk of a fault causing a fire.
Please call an electrician.|||if there is multiple switches for the lights there is no correct on or
off postion the switches work depending on what postion the other switches are in one switch down may be on and another up may be on just the nature of the beast.|||if it is a single pole switch it is upside down
but if it is a 3way or a four way it is operating properly
and the only way to tell if a 3 or 4way is right side up is to
click all switches on that 3 or 4way circuit down if there right
side up the lights will be off but if all point down and the light comes on then a switches flipped the wrong way.|||To tell if it%26#039;s upside down look at the printing on the mechanism,you really should let an electrician look at it because apart from the danger of fire and electric shock already mentioned there are legal and insurance issues,if someone is hurt or the building is damaged in 5,10 or 20 years from now the insurance people and police will come after you.|||If there is only one switch that operates the light, the switch will say on/off on the toggle. If the toggle doesn%26#039;t say on/off on it, the switch is a 3 or a 4 way switch. So if it is the only switch that operates the lights and there is no on/off on the toggle, you have the wrong switch but yes you can correct it by switching one wire from one side to the other but I%26#039;d go get the right switch. This is a common problem with home DIYers especially when working on 3 way switches.
Please call an electrician.|||if there is multiple switches for the lights there is no correct on or
off postion the switches work depending on what postion the other switches are in one switch down may be on and another up may be on just the nature of the beast.|||if it is a single pole switch it is upside down
but if it is a 3way or a four way it is operating properly
and the only way to tell if a 3 or 4way is right side up is to
click all switches on that 3 or 4way circuit down if there right
side up the lights will be off but if all point down and the light comes on then a switches flipped the wrong way.|||To tell if it%26#039;s upside down look at the printing on the mechanism,you really should let an electrician look at it because apart from the danger of fire and electric shock already mentioned there are legal and insurance issues,if someone is hurt or the building is damaged in 5,10 or 20 years from now the insurance people and police will come after you.|||If there is only one switch that operates the light, the switch will say on/off on the toggle. If the toggle doesn%26#039;t say on/off on it, the switch is a 3 or a 4 way switch. So if it is the only switch that operates the lights and there is no on/off on the toggle, you have the wrong switch but yes you can correct it by switching one wire from one side to the other but I%26#039;d go get the right switch. This is a common problem with home DIYers especially when working on 3 way switches.
Changed light switch to a light and outlet & it worked, switched to GFI and it pops when wire connected to GFI?
changed light switch to a light and outlet %26amp; it worked, switched to GFI and it pops when wire connected to GFI|||Your GFCI is wired improperly. Follow below...
Always make sure that all wires are free of any debris (sand lightly to ensure a good connection.
a. Turn off power at the service panel. Use a circuit tester, if necessary, to make sure power is off.
b. Disconnect the white (neutral) wires from the silver screw (on/from the old receptacle).
c. Pigtail the white wires and connect the pigtail to the white line terminal on the GFCI.
d. Disconnect the black (hot) wires from the brass screw (on/from the old receptacle)
e. Pigtail the black wire and connect to the hot line on the GFCI.
f. If there is a ground wire attach it to the green screw. The GFCI will function without a ground, but there may be some local building code(s) to consider if doing so.
g. Mount the GFCI, restore power and test.
It should function well if you have followed the above.
If it does not, please check (with your volt tester) that the hot and neutral wires are in fact the hot and neutral wires. Wire according to the instructions above and you are done.
If it continues to malfunction, you have wired the outlet improperly, and you need to make corrections there (or disconnect the outlet permanently). If you continue to have issues, call a licensed electrician.|||The only possible reason is that you do not have a complete 110 circuit at the box. When you changed it to a outlet and switch did the outlet work only when switch was on. If so them what has happened is that at the light, one wire(usually the black) was brought down to the box so they could switch the light on and off by breaking the circuit. If this is the case then the outlet would only work when the switch was on. If the box had a white black and ground wire going through it then you need to hook the wires up to the outlet first(black to bronze screw, white to silver screw and ground to green screw). Then take the white wire straight up to light and black through switch to light. Do this off the line side of the outlet not the load because if you take it off the load it will treat your light as a outlet and could trip.
Always make sure that all wires are free of any debris (sand lightly to ensure a good connection.
a. Turn off power at the service panel. Use a circuit tester, if necessary, to make sure power is off.
b. Disconnect the white (neutral) wires from the silver screw (on/from the old receptacle).
c. Pigtail the white wires and connect the pigtail to the white line terminal on the GFCI.
d. Disconnect the black (hot) wires from the brass screw (on/from the old receptacle)
e. Pigtail the black wire and connect to the hot line on the GFCI.
f. If there is a ground wire attach it to the green screw. The GFCI will function without a ground, but there may be some local building code(s) to consider if doing so.
g. Mount the GFCI, restore power and test.
It should function well if you have followed the above.
If it does not, please check (with your volt tester) that the hot and neutral wires are in fact the hot and neutral wires. Wire according to the instructions above and you are done.
If it continues to malfunction, you have wired the outlet improperly, and you need to make corrections there (or disconnect the outlet permanently). If you continue to have issues, call a licensed electrician.|||The only possible reason is that you do not have a complete 110 circuit at the box. When you changed it to a outlet and switch did the outlet work only when switch was on. If so them what has happened is that at the light, one wire(usually the black) was brought down to the box so they could switch the light on and off by breaking the circuit. If this is the case then the outlet would only work when the switch was on. If the box had a white black and ground wire going through it then you need to hook the wires up to the outlet first(black to bronze screw, white to silver screw and ground to green screw). Then take the white wire straight up to light and black through switch to light. Do this off the line side of the outlet not the load because if you take it off the load it will treat your light as a outlet and could trip.
How do i change the light switch to a newer one that is flat?
i want one of those flat switches that can be turned off and on by touching and not flipping the switch; is this an easy thing to do; do i need to turn off the elect at the circuit breaker
thank you for your help.|||If the old light switch was wired properly, the power need not be shut off. If the white wires are attached to the screws on the old switch you don%26#039;t need the popwer off as they are the nuetral wires. Take the wire attached to the dark screw off the old switch and attach it to the dark wire on the new one. The same goes for the wire attached to the silver screw. Throw away the old switch and ra attach the new switch to the box. Install the new cover and you%26#039;re ready for rock and roll...and light too.|||Fortunately hitting a target at 1000 yards is easy too if you have got practice. Electricity is extremely dangerous and replacing something as simple as a switch is never-the-less a very critical process.
Just to give you an idea why, would you believe all of the above answers are incorrect ? That is right. Turning off the breaker does NOT insure the circuit will be dead. Any trained electrician will know there as such things as double fed and shared neutrals which can leave a nasty little surprise.
You job involves turning off the main.. that is killing the entire house. Remove the switch and reconnect everything up as was to the new switch. That is the only safe way to do this.
Note: Aluminium wire requires the proper aluminium devices.|||There%26#039;s a reason that %26quot;old timers%26quot; aren%26#039;t around to answer these questions.... don%26#039;t EVER touch a wire to see if it is live! Also, don%26#039;t touch the black and white wires together to see if a circuit is live.
Just follow John%26#039;s instructions and you%26#039;ll be fine.|||My dad told me that the old timers used to touch the end of the wires to see what was hot. If it were me though, I%26#039;d still make the long trip to the breaker box to shut off the juice.
The project is easy enough, switches in general are all basically the same. Take out the old and replace with the new.|||Yes. Turn off the circuit breaker for that switch. Kris is a little over the top. Shared neutrals and such don%26#039;t make a bit of difference because you are not going to fool with the neutral. Ok, now we have that sorted out. Turn on the light, turn off the circuit breaker that makes the light go out.
Pull the switch out. Look at how many wires connect to the sides of the switch. Not counting the ground. 2 or 3 or 4, depending if it is a simple single pole, a three way, or a 4 way. Buy a switch with a matching configuration. Install that new switch the same way as the one you take out. Make sure your connections are tight using the screws or clamp type connections tightened with screws. Don%26#039;t use the slip in wire connections on the back. They are failure prone.|||very easy job to do. First you will need to find the circuit to the switch. Once you have the electric turned off, take the old switch out of the wall. Get masking tape and wrap around each wire so you can label them so they go back exactly how you took them off. The new switch should have the same screws to put the wires back on. Then take the wires off the old switch and put onto the new switch. screw the new switch back into the box, and screw the plate back on. then turn on the electricity and hopefully everything works well. only tool you should need is a flat head screw driver, but it might be nice to have a wire detector to make sure power is turned off.|||Very easy project. Is the switch you are replacing a part of a 2 or more switches that control the same light or outlet. If not you are in luck. Just turn of the breaker that handles this switch and replace it. The instructions in the new switch pkg will walk you through it. If it is a part of something bigger you will need to explain that in the store and they will sell you same switch that will be able to work with other switches on same circuit. You still can do it, it is not hard just an extra wire.
Good Luck!|||Yes...you need to turn the power off at breaker switch. You will need both the new flat switch and switch cover. Take off the old cover once power is off....remove the old switch and disconnect the 2 wires. On switches you can attach the 2 wires to either pole or connection. Screw the new switch back in with the ON position at top. Once it%26#039;s secure...put the new cover on.....and then go turn on power at breaker box.
thank you for your help.|||If the old light switch was wired properly, the power need not be shut off. If the white wires are attached to the screws on the old switch you don%26#039;t need the popwer off as they are the nuetral wires. Take the wire attached to the dark screw off the old switch and attach it to the dark wire on the new one. The same goes for the wire attached to the silver screw. Throw away the old switch and ra attach the new switch to the box. Install the new cover and you%26#039;re ready for rock and roll...and light too.|||Fortunately hitting a target at 1000 yards is easy too if you have got practice. Electricity is extremely dangerous and replacing something as simple as a switch is never-the-less a very critical process.
Just to give you an idea why, would you believe all of the above answers are incorrect ? That is right. Turning off the breaker does NOT insure the circuit will be dead. Any trained electrician will know there as such things as double fed and shared neutrals which can leave a nasty little surprise.
You job involves turning off the main.. that is killing the entire house. Remove the switch and reconnect everything up as was to the new switch. That is the only safe way to do this.
Note: Aluminium wire requires the proper aluminium devices.|||There%26#039;s a reason that %26quot;old timers%26quot; aren%26#039;t around to answer these questions.... don%26#039;t EVER touch a wire to see if it is live! Also, don%26#039;t touch the black and white wires together to see if a circuit is live.
Just follow John%26#039;s instructions and you%26#039;ll be fine.|||My dad told me that the old timers used to touch the end of the wires to see what was hot. If it were me though, I%26#039;d still make the long trip to the breaker box to shut off the juice.
The project is easy enough, switches in general are all basically the same. Take out the old and replace with the new.|||Yes. Turn off the circuit breaker for that switch. Kris is a little over the top. Shared neutrals and such don%26#039;t make a bit of difference because you are not going to fool with the neutral. Ok, now we have that sorted out. Turn on the light, turn off the circuit breaker that makes the light go out.
Pull the switch out. Look at how many wires connect to the sides of the switch. Not counting the ground. 2 or 3 or 4, depending if it is a simple single pole, a three way, or a 4 way. Buy a switch with a matching configuration. Install that new switch the same way as the one you take out. Make sure your connections are tight using the screws or clamp type connections tightened with screws. Don%26#039;t use the slip in wire connections on the back. They are failure prone.|||very easy job to do. First you will need to find the circuit to the switch. Once you have the electric turned off, take the old switch out of the wall. Get masking tape and wrap around each wire so you can label them so they go back exactly how you took them off. The new switch should have the same screws to put the wires back on. Then take the wires off the old switch and put onto the new switch. screw the new switch back into the box, and screw the plate back on. then turn on the electricity and hopefully everything works well. only tool you should need is a flat head screw driver, but it might be nice to have a wire detector to make sure power is turned off.|||Very easy project. Is the switch you are replacing a part of a 2 or more switches that control the same light or outlet. If not you are in luck. Just turn of the breaker that handles this switch and replace it. The instructions in the new switch pkg will walk you through it. If it is a part of something bigger you will need to explain that in the store and they will sell you same switch that will be able to work with other switches on same circuit. You still can do it, it is not hard just an extra wire.
Good Luck!|||Yes...you need to turn the power off at breaker switch. You will need both the new flat switch and switch cover. Take off the old cover once power is off....remove the old switch and disconnect the 2 wires. On switches you can attach the 2 wires to either pole or connection. Screw the new switch back in with the ON position at top. Once it%26#039;s secure...put the new cover on.....and then go turn on power at breaker box.
How do I change the light switch assembly in a '95 Mustang ?
I pull the switch and the headlights come on but no parking lights and no tail lights.No dash lights either. I checked all the fuses, and seem to think it is in the switch.|||own a 95%26#039; too. best bet,get a haynes or chilton guide ,it talks you through it.
What kind of light switch do I need?
I%26#039;m sure this has been asked and answered before, but I don%26#039;t know what kind it is I need to ask, so maybe someone can answer it for me or point me in the right direction.
I changed some light switches in my kitchen (from cream color to white), not thinking about the fact that there is a light that is controlled by two switches (I had to replace one of them). Now it doesn%26#039;t work right. I%26#039;m sure I used the wrong kind of switch when I replaced it. Before I go back to the hardware store to get a new switch, I%26#039;d like to be a little prepared as to what it is I%26#039;m looking for. I%26#039;m sure there will be someone at the store that can help me, but I%26#039;d like to have a little knowledge first.
So... What kind of light switch do I need when there are two switches that control one light?
Thanks.|||The others are correct about the 3-way switch. Perhaps it would help you to see a great article about 3-way switches. Figure 2 of this article is especially good.
http://www.act-solutions.com/kingery06.h鈥?/a>|||you need a threeway switch....|||It%26#039;s called a 3-way switch. The way it works is you have a common terminal and the hot wire goes to it. Then the other 2 wires are called runners and the go to the other 3-way switch and the common of the 2nd switch is hooked to the load or in your case the light. It%26#039;ll work then. Good luck.
Just be sure to connect the hot wire to the common terminal and the load to the common terminal of the other switch.
I changed some light switches in my kitchen (from cream color to white), not thinking about the fact that there is a light that is controlled by two switches (I had to replace one of them). Now it doesn%26#039;t work right. I%26#039;m sure I used the wrong kind of switch when I replaced it. Before I go back to the hardware store to get a new switch, I%26#039;d like to be a little prepared as to what it is I%26#039;m looking for. I%26#039;m sure there will be someone at the store that can help me, but I%26#039;d like to have a little knowledge first.
So... What kind of light switch do I need when there are two switches that control one light?
Thanks.|||The others are correct about the 3-way switch. Perhaps it would help you to see a great article about 3-way switches. Figure 2 of this article is especially good.
http://www.act-solutions.com/kingery06.h鈥?/a>|||you need a threeway switch....|||It%26#039;s called a 3-way switch. The way it works is you have a common terminal and the hot wire goes to it. Then the other 2 wires are called runners and the go to the other 3-way switch and the common of the 2nd switch is hooked to the load or in your case the light. It%26#039;ll work then. Good luck.
Just be sure to connect the hot wire to the common terminal and the load to the common terminal of the other switch.
How to change out a light switch in the home?
currently have a 3 contolled light switch. how to change out and possibly to a dimmer switch?|||Here%26#039;s a couple of links to check out. If you are unsure of yourself, then by all means get an electrician.
http://www.selfhelpandmore.com/switchout鈥?/a>
http://www.the-home-improvement-web.com/鈥?/a>
Hope it helps.|||This could be a shocking question.
Please consult an electrician and do not risk personal injury.|||Are you refering to a 3-way circuit involving two switches, or a 4-way circuit involving 3 switches? Granted, the latter isn%26#039;t as common, but it does exist.
First, you%26#039;ll need to detemine what type of light you%26#039;re attempting to dim. If it is a fluorescent light, forget it, they don%26#039;t dim, not unless you have a special ballast, and I don%26#039;t recall any homes ever having those types of lights. If it is an incandescent light, then you%26#039;ll be able to dim it, however you%26#039;ll need a special dimmer depending upon the type of circuit mentioned earlier in this response.
If you haven%26#039;t done any electrical work before and aren%26#039;t aware of the safety precautions involved, then I would STRONGLY suggest that you hire an electrician to perform the work for you.|||3 way switch or 3 lights on one switch? people ya gotta explain yourself here! either way you cant use a dimmer.. unless you used incandescent lighting
http://www.selfhelpandmore.com/switchout鈥?/a>
http://www.the-home-improvement-web.com/鈥?/a>
Hope it helps.|||This could be a shocking question.
Please consult an electrician and do not risk personal injury.|||Are you refering to a 3-way circuit involving two switches, or a 4-way circuit involving 3 switches? Granted, the latter isn%26#039;t as common, but it does exist.
First, you%26#039;ll need to detemine what type of light you%26#039;re attempting to dim. If it is a fluorescent light, forget it, they don%26#039;t dim, not unless you have a special ballast, and I don%26#039;t recall any homes ever having those types of lights. If it is an incandescent light, then you%26#039;ll be able to dim it, however you%26#039;ll need a special dimmer depending upon the type of circuit mentioned earlier in this response.
If you haven%26#039;t done any electrical work before and aren%26#039;t aware of the safety precautions involved, then I would STRONGLY suggest that you hire an electrician to perform the work for you.|||3 way switch or 3 lights on one switch? people ya gotta explain yourself here! either way you cant use a dimmer.. unless you used incandescent lighting
Changing a light switch but there's no ground wire?
I am replacing a regular toggle light switch with one of these just b/c I like the way it looks better...
http://www.homesteadertrailer.com/assets鈥?/a>
This new switch I bought has a green screw for a ground wire but the old switch didn%26#039;t have one %26amp; there is no ground wire. Do I have to have a ground wire? I went ahead %26amp; replaced it without just to see if it worked %26amp; the light does work but I still want to make sure that%26#039;s ok. Thanks!|||Yes it is fine and even by code. The code states that ungrounded systems can use grounded devices with out the use of a ground wire. This just means the device is not grounded and neither is the house if you do not have ground wires. This is the way many homes still are to this day and older homes never used a branch circuit ground.
P S this is for switches and lights only not for receptacles.|||The switch will work fine without a ground, but you have no ground fault protection to prevent you from getting shocked.|||Don%26#039;t worry about it. You don%26#039;t always have the ground in the switch box.|||its good.no problem.
http://www.homesteadertrailer.com/assets鈥?/a>
This new switch I bought has a green screw for a ground wire but the old switch didn%26#039;t have one %26amp; there is no ground wire. Do I have to have a ground wire? I went ahead %26amp; replaced it without just to see if it worked %26amp; the light does work but I still want to make sure that%26#039;s ok. Thanks!|||Yes it is fine and even by code. The code states that ungrounded systems can use grounded devices with out the use of a ground wire. This just means the device is not grounded and neither is the house if you do not have ground wires. This is the way many homes still are to this day and older homes never used a branch circuit ground.
P S this is for switches and lights only not for receptacles.|||The switch will work fine without a ground, but you have no ground fault protection to prevent you from getting shocked.|||Don%26#039;t worry about it. You don%26#039;t always have the ground in the switch box.|||its good.no problem.
I went to change a light switch outlet and the outlet that it controls.?
After I finished I tested it out and found that the light switch wouldn%26#039;t control that outlet any more. I went back to make sure everything was correct and it looked like it. I used the same switch as the old one, just a different color. Please Help!|||Just a guess here. You didn%26#039;t break off the jumper tab between the hot wire screws on the new receptacle. Usually one half of a receptacle is switched and the other half is live all the time. In that case, there is a small tab between the brass colored screws that must be broke off. Don%26#039;t break the tab on the silver screw side where the white wire is connected. Look at the old receptacle if you still have it.|||is there power on the outlet , or not ?
any details you can give will help us answer your question
will try to help in any way i can|||The connection (wire) could be broken or the breaker tripped. If it tripped, take care in flipping it back on especially if the box in the wall is metal instead of plastic.|||If the new switch is the same as the old and properly functioning
- once in a great moon a new switch is defective -
and the wiring looks to be hooked up the same as it was,
it%26#039;s time to get the old VOM out and start troubleshooting the circuit... after you%26#039;ve double checked to see if the circuit breaker has power leaving it (ska turning the breaker back ON)
Either that or call a competent electrician...|||Well, if you only messed with the switch and it worked before, the problem is there
1) Did you tighten the screws to the wires?
2) Did you pull the wires from the box to the switch too hard and possibly disconnect one from an interior connection
3) Did you trip the breaker / blow a fuse and forget to reset it.
Ok.. try this
a) main power off
a) Remove your switch and connect the two wires together with a wire nut
b) main power on.. is the outlet working?
(yes - continue reading)
(no - problem is in your breaker/wiring/fuse or the outlet - check for power in to your switch box)
c) got power to the outlet box... then:
d) power off
e) reconnect the switch and turn it on
f) power on
g) got power to outlet?
(yes - button it up. something was loose and you fixed it)
(no. prob. a bad switch - it happens - take it back and get a new one.
.. good luck|||You probably need to %26quot;break the tab%26quot; on the side of the outlet that has the hot and switch wires attached to. This would be the side that has the brass colored screws. If the tab is not broken, both the top and bottom parts of the outlet will always be hot.|||Couple of things to check. First, you DID remove the jumper bar thingies (sorry... can%26#039;t remember the right name) on BOTH sides of the outlet? Yoou need to see how much is suppose to come off.
My nephew ran into a similar problem last year helping me. The circuit breaker seemed fine but we flipped off then on again to just to be sure.
I would check at the various `breaks`: switches, junction boxes like what he did. I would get a pro later as if your hosue catches fire, you insurance company will want NOT to pay you for the damages since it was done by someone unlicensed.
Be safe and good luck.
PS. If home depot is by you, pick up one of their handy books.
any details you can give will help us answer your question
will try to help in any way i can|||The connection (wire) could be broken or the breaker tripped. If it tripped, take care in flipping it back on especially if the box in the wall is metal instead of plastic.|||If the new switch is the same as the old and properly functioning
- once in a great moon a new switch is defective -
and the wiring looks to be hooked up the same as it was,
it%26#039;s time to get the old VOM out and start troubleshooting the circuit... after you%26#039;ve double checked to see if the circuit breaker has power leaving it (ska turning the breaker back ON)
Either that or call a competent electrician...|||Well, if you only messed with the switch and it worked before, the problem is there
1) Did you tighten the screws to the wires?
2) Did you pull the wires from the box to the switch too hard and possibly disconnect one from an interior connection
3) Did you trip the breaker / blow a fuse and forget to reset it.
Ok.. try this
a) main power off
a) Remove your switch and connect the two wires together with a wire nut
b) main power on.. is the outlet working?
(yes - continue reading)
(no - problem is in your breaker/wiring/fuse or the outlet - check for power in to your switch box)
c) got power to the outlet box... then:
d) power off
e) reconnect the switch and turn it on
f) power on
g) got power to outlet?
(yes - button it up. something was loose and you fixed it)
(no. prob. a bad switch - it happens - take it back and get a new one.
.. good luck|||You probably need to %26quot;break the tab%26quot; on the side of the outlet that has the hot and switch wires attached to. This would be the side that has the brass colored screws. If the tab is not broken, both the top and bottom parts of the outlet will always be hot.|||Couple of things to check. First, you DID remove the jumper bar thingies (sorry... can%26#039;t remember the right name) on BOTH sides of the outlet? Yoou need to see how much is suppose to come off.
My nephew ran into a similar problem last year helping me. The circuit breaker seemed fine but we flipped off then on again to just to be sure.
I would check at the various `breaks`: switches, junction boxes like what he did. I would get a pro later as if your hosue catches fire, you insurance company will want NOT to pay you for the damages since it was done by someone unlicensed.
Be safe and good luck.
PS. If home depot is by you, pick up one of their handy books.
How to change the light switch on an 02 chevy cavailer?
My mom%26#039;s lights died last night, and when she took it to the shop today, they told her that her light switch is blown and it needs to be replaced. They%26#039;re gonna charge her an outrageous amount to do it, so knowing it%26#039;s a $50 part, how could one do this on their own?|||are you talking about the headlights ?
the headlight switch is made as part of your turn signal switch and for that you have to
get into the steering column to change.
the switch by itself is $135 if you have cruise control.
shop around to independent garages for labor prices|||what light switch interior or head light?
the headlight switch is made as part of your turn signal switch and for that you have to
get into the steering column to change.
the switch by itself is $135 if you have cruise control.
shop around to independent garages for labor prices|||what light switch interior or head light?
Have '98 Sable, need to know how to change light switch. Where can I find directions?
The lights stay on all the time. Have to disconnect battery to cut off.|||take the bulb out of the overhead unit that way it wont stay on all the time sounds like you have the switch turned on to the left all the way like you wanted a brighter dash lights make sure this didnt happen.ok and if you have the knob that goes up and down next to the light switch make sure its not up in the full position good luck the way to take the switch out of the dash is to take the battery gnd off the terminal pull the light switch all the way out and on the switch *** itself is a spring button on the underside of it under the dash push it in and remove the shaft up pulled out before that shaft will come out in you hand u will now see the nuts which hold the switch on the dash undo the switch will now fall into you hand get the new switch reinstall the way you took it off reinstall the shaft into the switch and reconnect the battery cable good luck|||Well if you sure its not a relay try autozone online or get a book.I believe that one is mounted on the wheel.
What is the procedure for changing the brake light switch behind the brake pedal?how hard is it to do urself?
1997 merc. mountaineer|||best is to bring it to a shop|||I%26#039;d have someone else with a little experience do it - it takes about 2 minutes.
If you%26#039;ve never replaced one, it could take a lot longer and end up installed incorrectly.|||A bit awkward but not too bad, just be sure to disconnect battery or fuse in case you short the wires.|||did you deterime the switch was faulty?? were the bulbs ok ? fuses ? the switch is not hard to change, remove the wire plug, if the switch is adjustable ? mark the old one so when you install the new switch it will be set the same distance from the pedal
If you%26#039;ve never replaced one, it could take a lot longer and end up installed incorrectly.|||A bit awkward but not too bad, just be sure to disconnect battery or fuse in case you short the wires.|||did you deterime the switch was faulty?? were the bulbs ok ? fuses ? the switch is not hard to change, remove the wire plug, if the switch is adjustable ? mark the old one so when you install the new switch it will be set the same distance from the pedal
I need help changing a light switch?
i need to know if i can connect the white wire to the light switch and if so at the top or the bottom
|||Maybe. The easiest is to call a qualified professional electrician to do the work.
Meanwhile what wires do you have in the switch box?
If it is only a black and a white and the ground, then the white should have a piece of black or red tape put on it and it should be connected to the switch on the top, and the black on the bottom. If there are other wires in the box, they need to be described to us. |||No. it should be the black wire, with the hot wire going to the bottom contact. Connecting the white wire to a switch creates a dangerous situation when even just changing a bulb. Go to this site and click on the link corresponding to your particular switch/light arrangement for more info and a diagram:|||The white wire is the neutral, you only want the black wire (hot) to be switched. Just connect the white wires together, and only tie the black ones to the switch.|||Rather than putting yourself %26amp; family at risk I would be getting an electrician in to replace it.Get a few quotes %26amp; let them know you already have a new switch.That way you only pay for the labour.|||It depends how your home was wired. If there is only one pair of wires in the switch box a black and white then yes connect both to the switch it doesn%26#039;t matter which goes on top or bottom.
If there is more than one pair then it%26#039;s more complicated, and may require an electrician. or someone who can figure out which wire goes where and hot and neutral.|||If there is only one set of wires going to the light switch, the black wire is the hot and the white wire is the %26quot;switch leg%26quot; that is going to the light. It doesn%26#039;t matter which end of the switch it is terminated on, but I always put the black on the bottom and the switch leg on the top of the switch. If there are more than one set of wires in the box then it will take some tracing and w/o being there it%26#039;s hard to diagnose
|||Maybe. The easiest is to call a qualified professional electrician to do the work.
Meanwhile what wires do you have in the switch box?
If it is only a black and a white and the ground, then the white should have a piece of black or red tape put on it and it should be connected to the switch on the top, and the black on the bottom. If there are other wires in the box, they need to be described to us. |||No. it should be the black wire, with the hot wire going to the bottom contact. Connecting the white wire to a switch creates a dangerous situation when even just changing a bulb. Go to this site and click on the link corresponding to your particular switch/light arrangement for more info and a diagram:|||The white wire is the neutral, you only want the black wire (hot) to be switched. Just connect the white wires together, and only tie the black ones to the switch.|||Rather than putting yourself %26amp; family at risk I would be getting an electrician in to replace it.Get a few quotes %26amp; let them know you already have a new switch.That way you only pay for the labour.|||It depends how your home was wired. If there is only one pair of wires in the switch box a black and white then yes connect both to the switch it doesn%26#039;t matter which goes on top or bottom.
If there is more than one pair then it%26#039;s more complicated, and may require an electrician. or someone who can figure out which wire goes where and hot and neutral.|||If there is only one set of wires going to the light switch, the black wire is the hot and the white wire is the %26quot;switch leg%26quot; that is going to the light. It doesn%26#039;t matter which end of the switch it is terminated on, but I always put the black on the bottom and the switch leg on the top of the switch. If there are more than one set of wires in the box then it will take some tracing and w/o being there it%26#039;s hard to diagnose
Should I change a light switch or take it to dealer?
I got a 99 camry
It%26#039;s light switch doesn%26#039;t work. I read the manual and it seemed easy to fix.
(I can change timing belt myself)
however, I am afraid that I have to touch air bag things. Should I take it to dealer or is it a easy diy thing?|||Disconnecting the battery it will take care of the airbag.|||Since your handy you should be able to change it yourself. Pick up a manual for your car and see what the job involves and see if you feel like its something you what to do. As far as the airbag the manual should tell you the procedure for making the airbag safe it involves disconnecting the battery and sometimes disconnecting the airbag module. Just be sure to follow the procedure to the letter. Good Luck
It%26#039;s light switch doesn%26#039;t work. I read the manual and it seemed easy to fix.
(I can change timing belt myself)
however, I am afraid that I have to touch air bag things. Should I take it to dealer or is it a easy diy thing?|||Disconnecting the battery it will take care of the airbag.|||Since your handy you should be able to change it yourself. Pick up a manual for your car and see what the job involves and see if you feel like its something you what to do. As far as the airbag the manual should tell you the procedure for making the airbag safe it involves disconnecting the battery and sometimes disconnecting the airbag module. Just be sure to follow the procedure to the letter. Good Luck
Changing brake light switch on '97 Dodge Stratus.?
I have read a million things online and they all say: it just clips off or on. I am pulling, poking, doing everything I can and can%26#039;t get it to remove itself. I need a real step-by-step guide to doing this. Please help, I need my brake lights back! :)|||this link is step by step light switch replacemnt for your stratus...http://www.autozone.com/az/cds/en_us/090鈥?/a>|||Most autopart shops like Autozone, or Checker will change the brake light for you, no cost if you buy the light from them.|||GO TO AUTO ZONE .COM CLICK ON REPAIR MANAUL, AND FOLLOW THE HEADINGS TO YOUR CAR ETC
Changing a Single Pole Light Switch with 3 black wires and no ground.?
I have just recently bought a house and was changing some of the light switches to new ones. In one of my boxes i have a 3 way light switch that controls an overhead light, i have changed that with little difficulty because of the way it had been rigged previous to me. the other light switch is for my outside light. keep in mind this is a finished basement with a drop ceiling etc.. apparently somehow the power from that light switch also controls some of my outlets in the room. because once i flipped the breaker i lost power to those outlets, still no biggy. i changed the switches out and the outside light didnt work, i changed the wires around and eventually got the light to work but i still have no power to my outlets. so then i got to messing with it again and now i cant get the right combo to get the light back on, there are the 3 black wires feeding into the box and each of the 3 lines running in have the white wires and the ground wires tapped off. im definitely not an electrician but know a little bit about DIY home repairs but im confused as heck right now. any help would be great!|||This is what you have, 1 black wire is your positive feed. (can be found with simple voltmeter, its the one that makes the little needle move) 2 black wires going to 2 different circuits, one to the light, one to the outlets. Find the power feed wire, plug it in to the switch, plug either black wire into the switch, in the hole next to the feed wire. See which circuit turns on, If the light turns on, the other black wire is your outlets, and vice versa, if the outlets power up, the other black wire is your light.
Now you need to piggy-back power off the feed wire directly to the black wire that goes to your outlets. Replace that switch with a regular switch, and put the light supply wire and feed wire on this switch.
That puts your outlets on constant circuit, that leaves the 2 black wires for your light, and that%26#039;s all you need for a light. Power to the switch, then supply to the light.
Your grounds and neutrals are correct, but not just taped. They need to be wire capped, then taped.
Wait, are you saying the grounds and neutrals are not connected just taped off, or are you saying the are connected to each other, just taped up?
Your white wires should be connected to the other white wires, all 3. The same with the bare copper wires. All 3 together.|||the configuration is power in to the common terminal power out though the switch-legs, this is improper ! find the wire that runs the outlets and hard wire it to the hot going into the switch. pigtail a wire from these two to a single pole switch then connect the other ( ceiling light) wire to the switch, a three way switch should only be used in conjunction with another three way switch.
Now you need to piggy-back power off the feed wire directly to the black wire that goes to your outlets. Replace that switch with a regular switch, and put the light supply wire and feed wire on this switch.
That puts your outlets on constant circuit, that leaves the 2 black wires for your light, and that%26#039;s all you need for a light. Power to the switch, then supply to the light.
Your grounds and neutrals are correct, but not just taped. They need to be wire capped, then taped.
Wait, are you saying the grounds and neutrals are not connected just taped off, or are you saying the are connected to each other, just taped up?
Your white wires should be connected to the other white wires, all 3. The same with the bare copper wires. All 3 together.|||the configuration is power in to the common terminal power out though the switch-legs, this is improper ! find the wire that runs the outlets and hard wire it to the hot going into the switch. pigtail a wire from these two to a single pole switch then connect the other ( ceiling light) wire to the switch, a three way switch should only be used in conjunction with another three way switch.
How to change a light switch?
I want to know how to change my regular light switch to something like an electronic dimmer. I need to know how to do the wiring.|||A switch is a pretty simple device, One wire connected to it has the power from the panel. The other wire goes to the light. The nice thing is that for most switches, it does not matter which one is connected to which screw. Make sure you turn off the power at the panel, remove the switch from the box, (as long as only two wires are connected), remove then, and connect them to the new switch and re-install.
The new digital dimmers that I have seen come with wires attached to them. In this case, you will need two wire nuts to make the connection. One wire for the switch connected to one wire from the box. They may also have a green wire on the switch, this is a ground. Attach it to the metal box in the wall with a ground screw or wire nut it to a bare ground wire in the box.
If this is a 3 way switch, or more than two wires are currently attached, you should probably get the help of a professional.|||No problem, good luck!
|||the important thing to remember always turn the power off when doing dimmers
most switches can handle a change out while still hot
most dimmers cannot
all the advice above is very good so it would seem that your switch just might be changed before i finish typing this|||Several types of dimmer switches are available--for example, push-on dimmers ( figure A) and slide dimmers (figure B)--but most operate the same way.
Materials:
Dimmer switch
Medium-size flat-head screwdriver
Needle-nose pliers
Crimping tool
Circuit tester
Barrel crimps
Wire nuts
Safety tip: Periodically test your circuit tester at an operating electrical outlet.
Turn off the power at the circuit breaker.
Remove the switchplate cover.
Remove the screws from the existing switch, and pull it out from the wall.
Use the circuit tester to make sure the power is off.
Disconnect the wiring.
Straighten the wires coming from the wall.
Twist a wire from the switch onto a wire from the wall, and snug the connection with needle-nose pliers. Use a barrel crimp (figure C) to connect the green wire to the bare copper ground wire. (Some building codes require that ground wires be connected with barrel crimps.)
Note: For this installation, it doesn%26#039;t matter which color wires you use to make your connections.
Cap the connection tightly with a wire nut.
Repeat the process for the other two wires.
Push the wires back into the box, screw the switch into place, and replace the cover. Be sure to install sliding dimmer switches upright--otherwise they could operate in reverse. The previous cover plate may not fit; others are available.
Turn the power back on at the circuit breaker.
See URL for pics etc ...|||The new dimmer will come with directions. Read them and Understand them before you do anything.|||Buy the same type of switch you have. A single or a three way. (two wires or three). Wire it the same way as the old one. The dimmer will probably have wires rather than screws. Connect them to the wires from the old switch with the twist on wire nuts that will come with the new dimmer. Turn off the electricity to that circuit first.|||Turn off power from main box .Then In back of the dimmer there%26#039;s three wires (black-white or blue-green) connect black to black -white or blue to white- green to exposed wire in box (Ground , does not have plastic cover).
The new digital dimmers that I have seen come with wires attached to them. In this case, you will need two wire nuts to make the connection. One wire for the switch connected to one wire from the box. They may also have a green wire on the switch, this is a ground. Attach it to the metal box in the wall with a ground screw or wire nut it to a bare ground wire in the box.
If this is a 3 way switch, or more than two wires are currently attached, you should probably get the help of a professional.|||No problem, good luck!
Report Abuse
|||the important thing to remember always turn the power off when doing dimmers
most switches can handle a change out while still hot
most dimmers cannot
all the advice above is very good so it would seem that your switch just might be changed before i finish typing this|||Several types of dimmer switches are available--for example, push-on dimmers ( figure A) and slide dimmers (figure B)--but most operate the same way.
Materials:
Dimmer switch
Medium-size flat-head screwdriver
Needle-nose pliers
Crimping tool
Circuit tester
Barrel crimps
Wire nuts
Safety tip: Periodically test your circuit tester at an operating electrical outlet.
Turn off the power at the circuit breaker.
Remove the switchplate cover.
Remove the screws from the existing switch, and pull it out from the wall.
Use the circuit tester to make sure the power is off.
Disconnect the wiring.
Straighten the wires coming from the wall.
Twist a wire from the switch onto a wire from the wall, and snug the connection with needle-nose pliers. Use a barrel crimp (figure C) to connect the green wire to the bare copper ground wire. (Some building codes require that ground wires be connected with barrel crimps.)
Note: For this installation, it doesn%26#039;t matter which color wires you use to make your connections.
Cap the connection tightly with a wire nut.
Repeat the process for the other two wires.
Push the wires back into the box, screw the switch into place, and replace the cover. Be sure to install sliding dimmer switches upright--otherwise they could operate in reverse. The previous cover plate may not fit; others are available.
Turn the power back on at the circuit breaker.
See URL for pics etc ...|||The new dimmer will come with directions. Read them and Understand them before you do anything.|||Buy the same type of switch you have. A single or a three way. (two wires or three). Wire it the same way as the old one. The dimmer will probably have wires rather than screws. Connect them to the wires from the old switch with the twist on wire nuts that will come with the new dimmer. Turn off the electricity to that circuit first.|||Turn off power from main box .Then In back of the dimmer there%26#039;s three wires (black-white or blue-green) connect black to black -white or blue to white- green to exposed wire in box (Ground , does not have plastic cover).
Au Ford Brake lights wont work after changing the brake light switch and globes can any one offer help please?
Well if the switch and bulbs are new that leaves fuses and wiring. It%26#039;s easy enough to check the fuses with a 12 volt test light just make sure each fuse has power on both side and then see if you have power to the brake lamp switch and then out of the switch when you press the brake pedal. If you have it to that point see if you have power to the bulbs with the brake pedal pressed if you have that then make sure you have a ground at the bulbs. Beyond that you might want to take it to a shop as tracing bad wiring can be a challenge.|||try changing the fuse as well, if not it might be a dud switch|||check the fuse for the brake lites if the fuse is still good then may i suggest an auto electrician.gl|||Make sure your brake light switch is adjusted correctly, if that%26#039;s ok check the globes again making sure they are the correct type of globe and also make sure the fuse has not blown it would help if you had a test light if all this fails see your auto electrician
Changing switch/light configuration?
I have two lights that originally were controlled by a single switch. Since one of the lights is at the top of the staircase, I hired an electrician to add a second three-way switch. So now I have two three-way switches controlling the two lights.
Here is what I would like to accomplish: retain the three-way switch functionality for the stairway light, and put the other light on a separate switch (at the same location--I%26#039;d like a two-gang switch box with one three-way and the other single switch).
Obviously I should have had the electrician handle this, but I didn%26#039;t think of it until later. I%26#039;m not certain how the wires are currently run, whether the power goes to the switch first or to the lights.
So I guess what I need to know is how to approach this--how to figure out the current wiring scheme, and what needs to be done in terms of re-wiring to get this to work the way I would like.|||There are too many ways to wire a 3 way to even give you advice on this. Bite the bullet and hire an electrician. It%26#039;s safer, and it shouldn%26#039;t be too costly since it%26#039;s a small job. If you know any electricians, they may be willing to do it on the side which will save you a bit. Hope this helps.
Here is what I would like to accomplish: retain the three-way switch functionality for the stairway light, and put the other light on a separate switch (at the same location--I%26#039;d like a two-gang switch box with one three-way and the other single switch).
Obviously I should have had the electrician handle this, but I didn%26#039;t think of it until later. I%26#039;m not certain how the wires are currently run, whether the power goes to the switch first or to the lights.
So I guess what I need to know is how to approach this--how to figure out the current wiring scheme, and what needs to be done in terms of re-wiring to get this to work the way I would like.|||There are too many ways to wire a 3 way to even give you advice on this. Bite the bullet and hire an electrician. It%26#039;s safer, and it shouldn%26#039;t be too costly since it%26#039;s a small job. If you know any electricians, they may be willing to do it on the side which will save you a bit. Hope this helps.
How much should it be for an electrician to change a light switch and plug sockets?
I needed to have a dimmer switch replaced, 2 plug sockets and one light switch, all straight forward, just basically changing over the old ones. I was charged 拢50.00 is this about right, thanks|||Sounds like a good price.
Around half of that will be for parts.|||Hi
It is a reasonable charge I%26#039;m afraid, but as you%26#039;ve already been told its cheaper to do it yourself. A lot of people are afraid to touch electrics, but its simpler than you may think. For the jobs that you%26#039;re talking about its just a question of turning off the electric, and swapping the wires over into the new sockets/switches. The new items you buy even tell you of any colour changes in the wiring over the years.
David|||oh hun, next time ask the question on how to do this... it is so easy! Trust me. The hardest part is finding what fuse to pull if they are not labeled on your panel. I let my 5 year old daughter change the double switch in the bathroom when I redid it a few months back. I know if she could do it you can! Still, overall, I don%26#039;t think the price was that bad for an electrician. |||Pretty cheap, would of cost you half that just for parts.
They are easy jobs that you can do yourself, but if you don%26#039;t fancy trying then keep this chaps number he is cheap!
|||Considering call-out fees, I would say it%26#039;s reasonable, not great, reasonable.|||I%26#039;d have charged at least that.
To give you an idea B%26amp;Q charge 65 quid for the first changeover and 10 quid for each switch/socket front thereafter. |||Well, the call-out charge is 拢40+ so you were lucky.|||yeah thats a good price,but there very simple jobs,do them yourself in future and save money.||| u could have done it cheaper your self
Around half of that will be for parts.|||Hi
It is a reasonable charge I%26#039;m afraid, but as you%26#039;ve already been told its cheaper to do it yourself. A lot of people are afraid to touch electrics, but its simpler than you may think. For the jobs that you%26#039;re talking about its just a question of turning off the electric, and swapping the wires over into the new sockets/switches. The new items you buy even tell you of any colour changes in the wiring over the years.
David|||oh hun, next time ask the question on how to do this... it is so easy! Trust me. The hardest part is finding what fuse to pull if they are not labeled on your panel. I let my 5 year old daughter change the double switch in the bathroom when I redid it a few months back. I know if she could do it you can! Still, overall, I don%26#039;t think the price was that bad for an electrician. |||Pretty cheap, would of cost you half that just for parts.
They are easy jobs that you can do yourself, but if you don%26#039;t fancy trying then keep this chaps number he is cheap!
|||Considering call-out fees, I would say it%26#039;s reasonable, not great, reasonable.|||I%26#039;d have charged at least that.
To give you an idea B%26amp;Q charge 65 quid for the first changeover and 10 quid for each switch/socket front thereafter. |||Well, the call-out charge is 拢40+ so you were lucky.|||yeah thats a good price,but there very simple jobs,do them yourself in future and save money.||| u could have done it cheaper your self
Changing a light switch?
changing from a plastic switch to a metal one - the earth is conected to the metal box behind where the switch cover is, should I now connect this to the new metal switch cover?|||you need an additional earth wire from the back of the box to the earth terminal on the switch then that way both metal parts are earthed.
make sure you switch off the power before changing the switch|||You should connect the house %26#039;earth%26#039; wire to the metal switch cover and then run a length of wire from the switch plate to the backbox.
If you were stupid enough to take the house wire to the back box first, any loosening of the connection would mean that you are vulnerable to shock with the switch still in place.
Do it front plate and then backbox, and should the wire become loose, it%26#039;s only the backbox which isn%26#039;t earthed. You can%26#039;t touch that bit in %26#039;normal%26#039; operation of the switch, ergo it%26#039;s safer.|||Yes that is correct,there should be an earth terminal in the switch box in more up to date properties. Take a short piece of green or green/yellow insulated copper 1.5mm squared single cable, connect it to both the switch and the terminal in the box,that%26#039;s it. If you do not have 1.5mm cable use 2.5mm single cable, no problem.|||Yes. The house cable should be connected to the metal box. You should have a separate length of wire connecting the switch plate to the box. This should be slightly longer than the current carrying wires so that if the switch is accidentally yanked off the wall, the earth wire breaks last.|||I would agree with %26#039;old know all%26#039; as the screws may not make
a suitable contact with the front to the back plate.
i would be careful asking electrical questions on this %26#039;glammed up%26#039; forum site. You could get kinda confused and take chances, and it may not be only yourself you are putting at risk.|||Yes, you must earth the metal switch for your own safety.
Unscrew it off the back of the metal box and screw onto the screw provided for the metal box. Then give it a tug to make sure it%26#039;s held securely.|||yes, as old know all said, you should also have a pastic backer between the back box and the switch.|||the GROUND, or 3rd wire, should be connected to the ground screw on the side of the switch itself - NOT the box (fire hazard). Make sure you have disconnected the power to that link prior to changing the switch - even 110v is enough to stop your heart if you touch the wires together. You should also make sure that you have an insulator between the faceplate and the box if you are going for the industrial look with metal faceplates. If you are not sure of what you are doing - get someone who does. improperly installed switches and outlets can and do start electrical fires and also can and do cause electrocutions. An improperly installed switch can also trip the fuse or breaker the circuit is tied to.|||Yes if you dont it wont be earthed.|||it%26#039;s called a ground wire people !!!!!! (of course you wouldn%26#039;t want to mars it that would be one long wire!!)|||YES, the metal switch face must be earthed, don%26#039;t rely on the screws to earth it.|||In America its known as a ground but in the UK its known as an earth or the correct term is CPC (Circuit Protective Conductor)
Both the galvenised steel back box and the front plate MUST BE earthed, the screws do not count. Take the earth wire to the back box first then to the front plate.
You will need another piece of cable to do this- either use 1.5mm Green and Yellow singles or the copper core of a piece of 1.5mm twin and earth it must have a piece of green and yellow sleeving on it though. All 3 are available at any decent DIY store.
make sure you switch off the power before changing the switch|||You should connect the house %26#039;earth%26#039; wire to the metal switch cover and then run a length of wire from the switch plate to the backbox.
If you were stupid enough to take the house wire to the back box first, any loosening of the connection would mean that you are vulnerable to shock with the switch still in place.
Do it front plate and then backbox, and should the wire become loose, it%26#039;s only the backbox which isn%26#039;t earthed. You can%26#039;t touch that bit in %26#039;normal%26#039; operation of the switch, ergo it%26#039;s safer.|||Yes that is correct,there should be an earth terminal in the switch box in more up to date properties. Take a short piece of green or green/yellow insulated copper 1.5mm squared single cable, connect it to both the switch and the terminal in the box,that%26#039;s it. If you do not have 1.5mm cable use 2.5mm single cable, no problem.|||Yes. The house cable should be connected to the metal box. You should have a separate length of wire connecting the switch plate to the box. This should be slightly longer than the current carrying wires so that if the switch is accidentally yanked off the wall, the earth wire breaks last.|||I would agree with %26#039;old know all%26#039; as the screws may not make
a suitable contact with the front to the back plate.
i would be careful asking electrical questions on this %26#039;glammed up%26#039; forum site. You could get kinda confused and take chances, and it may not be only yourself you are putting at risk.|||Yes, you must earth the metal switch for your own safety.
Unscrew it off the back of the metal box and screw onto the screw provided for the metal box. Then give it a tug to make sure it%26#039;s held securely.|||yes, as old know all said, you should also have a pastic backer between the back box and the switch.|||the GROUND, or 3rd wire, should be connected to the ground screw on the side of the switch itself - NOT the box (fire hazard). Make sure you have disconnected the power to that link prior to changing the switch - even 110v is enough to stop your heart if you touch the wires together. You should also make sure that you have an insulator between the faceplate and the box if you are going for the industrial look with metal faceplates. If you are not sure of what you are doing - get someone who does. improperly installed switches and outlets can and do start electrical fires and also can and do cause electrocutions. An improperly installed switch can also trip the fuse or breaker the circuit is tied to.|||Yes if you dont it wont be earthed.|||it%26#039;s called a ground wire people !!!!!! (of course you wouldn%26#039;t want to mars it that would be one long wire!!)|||YES, the metal switch face must be earthed, don%26#039;t rely on the screws to earth it.|||In America its known as a ground but in the UK its known as an earth or the correct term is CPC (Circuit Protective Conductor)
Both the galvenised steel back box and the front plate MUST BE earthed, the screws do not count. Take the earth wire to the back box first then to the front plate.
You will need another piece of cable to do this- either use 1.5mm Green and Yellow singles or the copper core of a piece of 1.5mm twin and earth it must have a piece of green and yellow sleeving on it though. All 3 are available at any decent DIY store.
How can i make a two way light switch into a threeway light switch without changing the wiring?
how can i make a two way light switch into a threeway light switch without changing the wiring?|||the only to do this without rewiring is to buy a wireless switch (Heath/Zenith mo #SL-6133)I bought at H.D.|||your question doesn%26#039;t make sense are you trying to add another switch to a light fixture on another wall or are you trying to change the switch itself with another one|||To control a light from 2 locations require 2 three way switches and to control a light from 3 locations require 2 three way switches and a 4 way switch.
Knowing this now maybe you can rephrase your question so that we can understand what it is you want to do.|||You can%26#039;t.
The three way switch requires different wiring or a 3 wire
run to the other switch
Knowing this now maybe you can rephrase your question so that we can understand what it is you want to do.|||You can%26#039;t.
The three way switch requires different wiring or a 3 wire
run to the other switch
Help with changing bathroom light switch?
the switch for the light in the bathroom is broken and we want to replace it. we plan to buy one at walmart or home depot, what kind of switch should i look for (what the package says)? in the bathroom, there is a separate switch for the light and one for the fan, but just changing the light one. both are on the same wall plate. any advice is appreciated =D|||All you need is a simple single pole switch. Pick whatever color you want. Turn off the breaker for that particular switch so that you don%26#039;t electrocute yourself. Remove the plate. Loosen the screws of the broken switch, pull it out, and remove the wires. Take note of how the wires are attached. Hook the wires to the new switch. Install it. Replace the plate. Turn the breaker back on. Test it.|||This is easy.
Turn off the electrical breaker that allows power to the switch.
Pull the wall plate off, unscrew the switch from the box, pull it toward you, and you will see two black wires. unscrew them, and attach them to the new switch, and reinstall the switch like the old one. Then, reinstall the cover plate.
Trip the breaker back on, and you%26#039;re done!|||Okay, I don%26#039;t know but my brother is a manager at a home depot and they%26#039;re really cool about explaining things when you go in to get your stuff. Ask for someone in that department because they *are* trained to do the work. At least they are in Missouri : )|||Are you sure it%26#039;s the switch? It could be a wire or god forbid you didn%26#039;t check the lightbulb? Anyhow, if you%26#039;re looking for one at either of those places you probably should just ask someone that works there for a lightswitch, make sure you tell them you want what goes in the box, not just the plate. If you don%26#039;t want to ask for it, I%26#039;d take the switch out and take it with you to match it up. Make sure you turn off the breaker though before you start poking around with a screw driver! If all else fails, look for a DIY article online for changing it out and it should probably have a picture of what you need?|||it is much simpler than the help you are getting. Tell them at the store you need a light switch. remove the old one and put in the new one. the wires don%26#039;t matter. two wires off the old two wires on the new. Just make sure you can read off and on (not upside down) oh, there may be a bare or green wire attached also, just place it on the new switch as well.
Turn off the electrical breaker that allows power to the switch.
Pull the wall plate off, unscrew the switch from the box, pull it toward you, and you will see two black wires. unscrew them, and attach them to the new switch, and reinstall the switch like the old one. Then, reinstall the cover plate.
Trip the breaker back on, and you%26#039;re done!|||Okay, I don%26#039;t know but my brother is a manager at a home depot and they%26#039;re really cool about explaining things when you go in to get your stuff. Ask for someone in that department because they *are* trained to do the work. At least they are in Missouri : )|||Are you sure it%26#039;s the switch? It could be a wire or god forbid you didn%26#039;t check the lightbulb? Anyhow, if you%26#039;re looking for one at either of those places you probably should just ask someone that works there for a lightswitch, make sure you tell them you want what goes in the box, not just the plate. If you don%26#039;t want to ask for it, I%26#039;d take the switch out and take it with you to match it up. Make sure you turn off the breaker though before you start poking around with a screw driver! If all else fails, look for a DIY article online for changing it out and it should probably have a picture of what you need?|||it is much simpler than the help you are getting. Tell them at the store you need a light switch. remove the old one and put in the new one. the wires don%26#039;t matter. two wires off the old two wires on the new. Just make sure you can read off and on (not upside down) oh, there may be a bare or green wire attached also, just place it on the new switch as well.
Changing light switch?
Is this hard to do? Do you need to turn the power off before doing it? My light switches are old and I want some new shiny ones!|||It%26#039;s not hard. Buy good switches, not cheap junk. I use spec grade only, they last longer. Most switches will have 2 wires connected. Some may have 3 or even 4 wires connected. You need the same switch as the one you are replacing. Yes, do turn off the power to the circuit you are working on. Connect the wires to the new switch the same way they are connected to the old switch. Do one switch at a time. Make sure the connections are tight. Try each one after you change it, so you know it works before moving on. This will limit any mistakes to one location only. Email if you need more help.|||I don%26#039;t recommend anyone to change out switches unless I teach them myself. I don%26#039;t really trust any suggestions either because majority of people don%26#039;t know the real dangers involved. Is it simple? Yes, your basic single pole switch is pretty basic. Two positive connection and a ground on green screw if provided. Yet the wire itself is extremely particular in how you attach it. Also with multiple wires already in the same switch box you have to consider the density of the wires, the wire nuts and so on, all which add up to heat and degrades the wiring and switch. Even with those possibilities you are not even getting to the next most common type of switch: a 3way switch. I%26#039;ll share with you a true story. I had a friend who has his Ph.D and 15+ years higher educational training in the medical field. He worked with me almost 2 years. Time passes and he moves on to better things, but he calls me one day and tells me his 3way switch isn%26#039;t working and he can%26#039;t fix it. I go over and fix it in no time flat because I do this type of stuff for a living. The point of the story? Changing switches is hard. Whoever tells you it is easy is plain ignorant to the dangers and the complexities involved.|||This is an easy do it yourself task. Yes turn off the power. Pull the plate off of the switch. There will be two screws that hold the switch in the box. Remove these screws and pull the switch out of the box. Disconnect the wires making sure to look at how they are attached to the old switch. make a diagram of the connections so you won%26#039;t forget. Buy the new switch and reattach the wires and replace the switch and cover plate.
Good luck|||Yes, definitely turn off the power first!
It%26#039;s a pretty easy fix if you%26#039;re familiar with electricity.
Here%26#039;s a good how-to:
http://www.ehow.com/how_117533_swap-faul鈥?/a>|||YOU COULD GET A FATAL JOLT OF ELECTRICITY IF YOU DON%26#039;T TURN THE POWER OFF BEFORE DOING ELECTRICAL WORK. IT%26#039;S NOT VERY DIFFICULT IF YOU HAVE EXPERIENCE.|||Not hard to do. DO turn off power first. Just match the wiring from the old switch to the new one.
Bert|||It is not hard to do. Yes...make sure you turn the breaker off before starting and test the circuit to make sure that it is off.
Follow the link below for instructions.|||there very easy. turn your power off.
then there are about 5 or 6 screws watch how you take the wires off so you know how to put them back on.
this is somthing you can do very easy.|||Are you talking about the light switch covers themselves?? They are easy to change out, and no you do not need to turn off the power, just don%26#039;t stick something inside the circuit box itself or you might get zapped!|||If you are only changing out the switch plates, there is no power involved. Home Depot and Loews have walls of switchplate covers for you to choose from. Just unscrew the old and add the new.|||yes it would be wise unless you want to be shot about ten feet across the room, id say get a qualified electrician in to do it for you
Good luck|||Yes, definitely turn off the power first!
It%26#039;s a pretty easy fix if you%26#039;re familiar with electricity.
Here%26#039;s a good how-to:
http://www.ehow.com/how_117533_swap-faul鈥?/a>|||YOU COULD GET A FATAL JOLT OF ELECTRICITY IF YOU DON%26#039;T TURN THE POWER OFF BEFORE DOING ELECTRICAL WORK. IT%26#039;S NOT VERY DIFFICULT IF YOU HAVE EXPERIENCE.|||Not hard to do. DO turn off power first. Just match the wiring from the old switch to the new one.
Bert|||It is not hard to do. Yes...make sure you turn the breaker off before starting and test the circuit to make sure that it is off.
Follow the link below for instructions.|||there very easy. turn your power off.
then there are about 5 or 6 screws watch how you take the wires off so you know how to put them back on.
this is somthing you can do very easy.|||Are you talking about the light switch covers themselves?? They are easy to change out, and no you do not need to turn off the power, just don%26#039;t stick something inside the circuit box itself or you might get zapped!|||If you are only changing out the switch plates, there is no power involved. Home Depot and Loews have walls of switchplate covers for you to choose from. Just unscrew the old and add the new.|||yes it would be wise unless you want to be shot about ten feet across the room, id say get a qualified electrician in to do it for you
Changing a household lever action light switch..de-energize electrical circuit that controls switch?
I will be changing a light switch later today. It is my first time doing this as this is my first home.....
The directions on %26quot;how stuff works%26quot;.com says step 1 is to de-energize the electrical circuit that controls switch.....what do they mean by this???|||What they mean is turn off the power to the switch - the breaker box. Would be a rea; good idea for you to purchase a circuit tester to make sure you have the current off before going to work. You could do like I do - turn off all the power to the whole house and work with a spot light - I don%26#039;t like electricity either.|||3DDD is right, but when I do stuff I just pull the breaker that the fixture is on. You may have fuses. Just find the fuse and remove it.|||Since you have never done this before it is best you turn off the main circuit breaker killing power to all the house.
The main is located in the breaker box. It is the big one at the top of the box.
After you get it turned off go around checking to make sure it has turned off all the circuits in the house before you start working. You do this by going and checking the circuits (lights, coffee makers, TV%26#039;s, lamps etc.) by turning them off and on. Also turn the switch you are going to be changing off and on to make sure the power is off.
Reasons for the safety check: Three reasons:
1. you have never done this before
2. Circuit breakers and switches have been known to malfunction. You think you have them off but the circuit is still hot. That definitely makes for a nasty surprise.
3. When working with electricity do not assume anything.
You assume you a.s.s/u/me
The directions on %26quot;how stuff works%26quot;.com says step 1 is to de-energize the electrical circuit that controls switch.....what do they mean by this???|||What they mean is turn off the power to the switch - the breaker box. Would be a rea; good idea for you to purchase a circuit tester to make sure you have the current off before going to work. You could do like I do - turn off all the power to the whole house and work with a spot light - I don%26#039;t like electricity either.|||3DDD is right, but when I do stuff I just pull the breaker that the fixture is on. You may have fuses. Just find the fuse and remove it.|||Since you have never done this before it is best you turn off the main circuit breaker killing power to all the house.
The main is located in the breaker box. It is the big one at the top of the box.
After you get it turned off go around checking to make sure it has turned off all the circuits in the house before you start working. You do this by going and checking the circuits (lights, coffee makers, TV%26#039;s, lamps etc.) by turning them off and on. Also turn the switch you are going to be changing off and on to make sure the power is off.
Reasons for the safety check: Three reasons:
1. you have never done this before
2. Circuit breakers and switches have been known to malfunction. You think you have them off but the circuit is still hot. That definitely makes for a nasty surprise.
3. When working with electricity do not assume anything.
You assume you a.s.s/u/me
Am I crazy to do my own electrical work - changing a regular light switch to a dimmer and replacing a dimmer?
This is an older house. I%26#039;ve replaced light fixtures and did that wiring okay. Now I%26#039;m thinking about changing a dimmer switch to a regular switch, replacing an old dimmer switch with a new one, and replacing a regular outlet with a ground fault interrupter outlet.
Is that too complicated or are those things pretty easy? The one thing I worry about is that this is an older house with several owners over the years. Some of the wiring I%26#039;ve seen is pretty outdated. I wonder if an electrician would notice a safety problem in the existing wiring and I wouldn%26#039;t.|||Replacing the switch is no problem. A single pole switch is just that. It breaks the current flow on the %26quot;hot%26quot; wire so there is no in and out. If you are dealing with 3 or 4-way switches be careful to recognize the existing hook-up.
The outlets are a different deal. They need to be hooked up properly to maintain polarization. There is a designated positive (hot), neutral, and ground. You have to have a%26quot;ground%26quot; to hook up a GFCI outlet. You can achieve this best by wiring back to your electrical service with 12/2 WG (with ground) wire.If this isn%26#039;t probable you may be able to run an additional wire to a water pipe (not recommended, but can be done). The wire should have green sheathing to designate it as a ground wire. Hook your GFCI up per instructions and push the test button. If everything is hooked up right it should %26quot;trip%26quot;. There are also plug in testers available to test for proper polarity and ground. Hope this helps! Oh, buy the way, turn off the power.|||Just make sure all your smoke alarms have fresh batteries in them : )|||If you are the least bit concerned, then call a professional. If the wiring were fairly new, I%26#039;d definitely say jump right to it, but in this case, better safe than sorry!|||If you%26#039;re smart enough to do it yourself...look at the money your saving. Most people couldn%26#039;t do that..so, save your money to put elsewhere.|||Changing out switches and dimmers is really easy. Remember to turn off the power first.|||Heck no, that%26#039;s completely fine to do it yourself. I%26#039;m 23 and my fiance and I have our own home too - an older house as well. We%26#039;ve done all kinds of work, (he%26#039;s done more than I have, but I have done 2 rewiring jobs alone) and we have some old wiring too. Just shut off the main and you%26#039;ll be fine. Godo luck!|||replacing switches is easy but ya might want an electrician to check out the wiring in an old house|||LESS THAN 10 MIN JOB|||Changing out switches and outlets are very simple and easy. Just make sure that you do turn off the power to the switch or plug that you are working on first so you wont wired your self up.|||For your own safety i think you should let a really good electrician check out the wiring for any safety hazards or get the opinion of someone who can give u a second opinion who is actually there and can see the wiring|||Given that it is an old house, you might want an electrician to check on the wiring, but that has nothing to do with the job at hand. When you do the work, just make sure that the electricity to that area is turned off until you have completed it. You seem pretty handy, so I%26#039;m sure you can do it.|||doing switches and outlets are safe to do as long as power is off replace one wire at a time if not sure easiest way to remember is black is always hot white is neutral , and black goes to brass and white goes bronze , on gfi remember to follow line and load|||both are pretty simple to change al you need to do is turn on the light then trip breaker until the light goes off then change the switch. the out let plug in a lamp turn it on and do the same with the breakers until the lamp goes out. the gfi outlet is sometime s a little tricky just ask the people where you buy the breaker how you hook up the wires to it. most of them have gold and chrome screws just put the black to the gold and white to chrome. and you will be ok . you are not going to be seeing much in the way of detecting hazzards while doing the two task|||I run new circuits and wiring all the time in the homes I own. I once took out an old panel / breakers and replaced with a brand new Square D ... Go to the library and get a book. This crap is easy once you understand the basics.|||No you should be fine. Just make sure you turn the breaker off to be on the safe side.
I was doing some wiring in the attic of house one day and the breaker box was in the basement. I decided that if I was careful to not touch both hot wires at the same time I would be okay. Wrong, while connecting one of the hot wires my hand brushed up against the ground wire and I didn%26#039;t know it till it got half way up my arm. My arm throbbed for days over that stupid trick and I%26#039;ll make the long trip to the breaker box every time from then on.|||If you%26#039;ve replaced light fixtures, you should have no problems changing switches. Most switches even have which wire goes where printed right on the plastic. Just make sure the circuit%26#039;s off and plug the wires in the right places. Incredibly easy. Even if your wiring is older, changing switches shouldn%26#039;t do anything to make it worse.|||No you are not crazy for doing it. Take the chance and do it.|||As long as you aren%26#039;t increasing the load on the circuit and just doing simple switch replacements, you shouldn%26#039;t have to worry about the wiring. If you were adding light fixtures or outlets to a circuit you need to make sure the circuit can handle the additional load. Many basic electrical guides tell you how many outlets and/or lights you can put on a 20amp circuit.|||of course an electrician would notice a problem, that%26#039;s how they live. the job at hand sounds easy.the switches are self explanatory just hook the new ones up just like the old ones.the outlet- if there is not a ground wire to hook up to the new outlet you%26#039;ll need to run a #8 wire from your ground screw on your new outlet to a screw in the back of the metal outlet box securely.|||i wouldn%26#039;t say your crazy for doing it but your question about a safety problem could be just that if old wiring (and that depends how old) is the type that insulation is comming off it and if there is no ground wire along with your hot and nuetral wire. if you can cut a short piece about an inch long and take it to a store like Lows or a hardware store and ask one of sales people in that area about it. most will tell you if it is safe or not. If possible in older houses with only hot and nuetral wire run it is best to rewire where you can and than be very carefull about what you hook up to outlets and the amp draw that they will pull. educate your self by reading all instructions that come with any electrical item. also many store like lows or home depo have books on basic electrical work like you mentioned. Good Luck|||If you are comfortable with working around electric, then you probably will be all right.
Just remember to make sure you are dealing with an inactive circuit, or you might have a shocking revelation!!
You don%26#039;t say if you are still on a fused panel or if it has been upgraded to circuit breakers.
If you got fuses, it is most likely needing someone to just do a quick check of the wiring and see how it is laid out.
You would be surprised at the configurations I have seen with add-ons that occurred 15 years ago and then there is something else added for the outlet out back for the freezer. First thing you know, your fridge is wired into the same circuit that the microwave is supposed to be on.
Just be safe!!|||those that say no problem and go ahead they have done it too, are wrong....egads just because something works and you get a light to shine doesnt mean it was done right or SAFELY! A monkey can put 2 wires together, but one day they might burn down the house because of it...and then say omg what could have possibly happened! anyways....while YES NORMALLY changing any of these isnt too hard....the problem i see is you mentioning a few times the age of the house and wiring....and if ANYONE here knows anything about wiring....they should know that older wiring is NOTHING like the modern stuff and the proper way of wiring techniques. YES an electrician would most likely find MANY problems or safety issues in your home...and I recommend you call one asap...
Is that too complicated or are those things pretty easy? The one thing I worry about is that this is an older house with several owners over the years. Some of the wiring I%26#039;ve seen is pretty outdated. I wonder if an electrician would notice a safety problem in the existing wiring and I wouldn%26#039;t.|||Replacing the switch is no problem. A single pole switch is just that. It breaks the current flow on the %26quot;hot%26quot; wire so there is no in and out. If you are dealing with 3 or 4-way switches be careful to recognize the existing hook-up.
The outlets are a different deal. They need to be hooked up properly to maintain polarization. There is a designated positive (hot), neutral, and ground. You have to have a%26quot;ground%26quot; to hook up a GFCI outlet. You can achieve this best by wiring back to your electrical service with 12/2 WG (with ground) wire.If this isn%26#039;t probable you may be able to run an additional wire to a water pipe (not recommended, but can be done). The wire should have green sheathing to designate it as a ground wire. Hook your GFCI up per instructions and push the test button. If everything is hooked up right it should %26quot;trip%26quot;. There are also plug in testers available to test for proper polarity and ground. Hope this helps! Oh, buy the way, turn off the power.|||Just make sure all your smoke alarms have fresh batteries in them : )|||If you are the least bit concerned, then call a professional. If the wiring were fairly new, I%26#039;d definitely say jump right to it, but in this case, better safe than sorry!|||If you%26#039;re smart enough to do it yourself...look at the money your saving. Most people couldn%26#039;t do that..so, save your money to put elsewhere.|||Changing out switches and dimmers is really easy. Remember to turn off the power first.|||Heck no, that%26#039;s completely fine to do it yourself. I%26#039;m 23 and my fiance and I have our own home too - an older house as well. We%26#039;ve done all kinds of work, (he%26#039;s done more than I have, but I have done 2 rewiring jobs alone) and we have some old wiring too. Just shut off the main and you%26#039;ll be fine. Godo luck!|||replacing switches is easy but ya might want an electrician to check out the wiring in an old house|||LESS THAN 10 MIN JOB|||Changing out switches and outlets are very simple and easy. Just make sure that you do turn off the power to the switch or plug that you are working on first so you wont wired your self up.|||For your own safety i think you should let a really good electrician check out the wiring for any safety hazards or get the opinion of someone who can give u a second opinion who is actually there and can see the wiring|||Given that it is an old house, you might want an electrician to check on the wiring, but that has nothing to do with the job at hand. When you do the work, just make sure that the electricity to that area is turned off until you have completed it. You seem pretty handy, so I%26#039;m sure you can do it.|||doing switches and outlets are safe to do as long as power is off replace one wire at a time if not sure easiest way to remember is black is always hot white is neutral , and black goes to brass and white goes bronze , on gfi remember to follow line and load|||both are pretty simple to change al you need to do is turn on the light then trip breaker until the light goes off then change the switch. the out let plug in a lamp turn it on and do the same with the breakers until the lamp goes out. the gfi outlet is sometime s a little tricky just ask the people where you buy the breaker how you hook up the wires to it. most of them have gold and chrome screws just put the black to the gold and white to chrome. and you will be ok . you are not going to be seeing much in the way of detecting hazzards while doing the two task|||I run new circuits and wiring all the time in the homes I own. I once took out an old panel / breakers and replaced with a brand new Square D ... Go to the library and get a book. This crap is easy once you understand the basics.|||No you should be fine. Just make sure you turn the breaker off to be on the safe side.
I was doing some wiring in the attic of house one day and the breaker box was in the basement. I decided that if I was careful to not touch both hot wires at the same time I would be okay. Wrong, while connecting one of the hot wires my hand brushed up against the ground wire and I didn%26#039;t know it till it got half way up my arm. My arm throbbed for days over that stupid trick and I%26#039;ll make the long trip to the breaker box every time from then on.|||If you%26#039;ve replaced light fixtures, you should have no problems changing switches. Most switches even have which wire goes where printed right on the plastic. Just make sure the circuit%26#039;s off and plug the wires in the right places. Incredibly easy. Even if your wiring is older, changing switches shouldn%26#039;t do anything to make it worse.|||No you are not crazy for doing it. Take the chance and do it.|||As long as you aren%26#039;t increasing the load on the circuit and just doing simple switch replacements, you shouldn%26#039;t have to worry about the wiring. If you were adding light fixtures or outlets to a circuit you need to make sure the circuit can handle the additional load. Many basic electrical guides tell you how many outlets and/or lights you can put on a 20amp circuit.|||of course an electrician would notice a problem, that%26#039;s how they live. the job at hand sounds easy.the switches are self explanatory just hook the new ones up just like the old ones.the outlet- if there is not a ground wire to hook up to the new outlet you%26#039;ll need to run a #8 wire from your ground screw on your new outlet to a screw in the back of the metal outlet box securely.|||i wouldn%26#039;t say your crazy for doing it but your question about a safety problem could be just that if old wiring (and that depends how old) is the type that insulation is comming off it and if there is no ground wire along with your hot and nuetral wire. if you can cut a short piece about an inch long and take it to a store like Lows or a hardware store and ask one of sales people in that area about it. most will tell you if it is safe or not. If possible in older houses with only hot and nuetral wire run it is best to rewire where you can and than be very carefull about what you hook up to outlets and the amp draw that they will pull. educate your self by reading all instructions that come with any electrical item. also many store like lows or home depo have books on basic electrical work like you mentioned. Good Luck|||If you are comfortable with working around electric, then you probably will be all right.
Just remember to make sure you are dealing with an inactive circuit, or you might have a shocking revelation!!
You don%26#039;t say if you are still on a fused panel or if it has been upgraded to circuit breakers.
If you got fuses, it is most likely needing someone to just do a quick check of the wiring and see how it is laid out.
You would be surprised at the configurations I have seen with add-ons that occurred 15 years ago and then there is something else added for the outlet out back for the freezer. First thing you know, your fridge is wired into the same circuit that the microwave is supposed to be on.
Just be safe!!|||those that say no problem and go ahead they have done it too, are wrong....egads just because something works and you get a light to shine doesnt mean it was done right or SAFELY! A monkey can put 2 wires together, but one day they might burn down the house because of it...and then say omg what could have possibly happened! anyways....while YES NORMALLY changing any of these isnt too hard....the problem i see is you mentioning a few times the age of the house and wiring....and if ANYONE here knows anything about wiring....they should know that older wiring is NOTHING like the modern stuff and the proper way of wiring techniques. YES an electrician would most likely find MANY problems or safety issues in your home...and I recommend you call one asap...
Can you convert a regular light switch to a dimmer w/o changing the light?
I currently have a room that has a ceiling fan with a light and a regular off/on light switch. If possilbe I would like to simply change the switch to a dimmer switch w/o having to change the ceiling fan.|||The dimmer won%26#039;t work with the fan.|||If it is controlled by one switch then the answer is no.
You do not want to use a light dimmer to vary speed of the fan and also dim the light bulb.|||Not a problem unless the switch also turns on the fan, if its just the light it controls go for it.|||no
do not do it
i put a fan where a light was sappose to go within a week the fan burned out because of an accident
it easier to get a remote with a light dimmer in it
wire the reciever at the top the hard part is gettin the cap around the box but other then that its easy my 12 year old son did all my fans with remotes|||Yes, it just means you need to buy a dimmer switch. It hooks up like any other switch.|||It%26#039;s easy to change the light switch, but with a fan on the circuit you may burn out the motor if it does not get full power. Usually on fans with lights they have 2 or three light settings built in. If this is not the case, I would put in smaller wattage bulbs to change the amount of light. Not a dimmer switch|||Does the switch also run the fan, or just the light? If the switch is just for the light and assuming the fixture uses dimmable bulbs like incandescent or halogen, you can just swap out the switch with a dimmer. Buy a dimmer rated at the total watts of the lamps.
You do not want to use a light dimmer to vary speed of the fan and also dim the light bulb.|||Not a problem unless the switch also turns on the fan, if its just the light it controls go for it.|||no
do not do it
i put a fan where a light was sappose to go within a week the fan burned out because of an accident
it easier to get a remote with a light dimmer in it
wire the reciever at the top the hard part is gettin the cap around the box but other then that its easy my 12 year old son did all my fans with remotes|||Yes, it just means you need to buy a dimmer switch. It hooks up like any other switch.|||It%26#039;s easy to change the light switch, but with a fan on the circuit you may burn out the motor if it does not get full power. Usually on fans with lights they have 2 or three light settings built in. If this is not the case, I would put in smaller wattage bulbs to change the amount of light. Not a dimmer switch|||Does the switch also run the fan, or just the light? If the switch is just for the light and assuming the fixture uses dimmable bulbs like incandescent or halogen, you can just swap out the switch with a dimmer. Buy a dimmer rated at the total watts of the lamps.
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